If you are going to wash it with a hose and drive in rain seal everything.
Hand wash no rain just seal between the glass and w/strip. Easier to put
w/shield in with frame on body. Use rope in method(w/strip on glass, rope in
channel that fits on pinchweld, cross at bottom, lube(silicone, soapy water)
hold
in place , pull rope at 45 degree angle to center of w/shield to install. Put
on moldings and then seal between glass and w/strip with RTV silicone. Do
not use silicone on parts that may be frequently removed or between w/strip
and
frame and lower seal and body. If you are going to seal there use a auto
body sealer like 3M 8634 or Titan R 300 they stay soft and will let you
remove
the parts if you have to. I have never had a w/shield frame off of one of
these. From what I have read there is a set of wedges to set the angle of the
frame to the vent frame. Maybe someone else can elaborate on this. HTH Oh yeah
use aluminum rivets on this, steel ones are too hard to remove. HTHA
B382002560
In a message dated 12/29/2008 8:37:33 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
geowiz.sgy@cox.net writes:
As I start putting freshly repainted Tigger back together, I have lots of
questions tonight:
1) When installing the body-to-windshield seal, do you use some kind of
sealant, or just bolt the frame in place and let the rubber act as the seal?
2) I'm putting new glass in the windshield. Do I install the frame, then add
the glass, or install the glass on the workbench and mount the assembled unit
to the car?
2a) Either way, do I use a sealant around the glass?
3) The wiper drive cable binds in the tubes. I greased it up well, and it
will probably work, but will put unnecessary strain on the wiper motor. Is
there any way to "rotoroot" the tubes to make it work better?
Thanks. More questions are sure to follow as reassembly progresses.
Jim Pickard
B9473298 ('65 Tiger)
AN5L/12109 ('59 Sprite) - sold
2003 Mini Cooper
Lafayette, LA
Tigers@autox.team.net
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