IMHO, the Tiger really NEEDS static camber in at least the -1.0 range,
given its poor camber curve and Ackerman issues. What wears tires, in general,
is extreme toe, as in dialing in toe out on the front to accelerate turn in
response. Camber, for a car driven with any spirit at all, is not a tire
killer.
In a message dated 5/16/2010 8:31:45 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rfraser@bluefrog.com writes:
Brad
Relocating the upper A arm was a trick Shelby American used on the
Mustang to get more Neg camber for racing.
Someone in the Tiger group did this same trick on the Tiger; STOA has it in
their 1977 Tech Tips Supplement but I do not see an author listed with the
3
part Suspension Tuning Tip.
The alignment you use on a Tiger depends on the type of driving you
do. Racing requires one set up; normal driving needs much less. I'm
really
not sure why you want zero camber at rest. There is nothing wrong with 1
5/8 Neg camber unless you are wearing the tires.
My front suspension is mostly stock and I have 1/2 to 3/4 degree neg
camber, caster is at the best I could get about 2 degrees and toe in is
around 1/8 and I have no problem with tire wear.
Can you put the upper A arm back to the original position? I would
then put in 1/2 to 3/4 Neg camber and 1/16 toe in, + 3 to 4 degrees caster;
this should be a good street set up.
Ron Fraser
-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Brad Huff
Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2010 9:18 PM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] front suspension and alignment
Years ago when I went through my front suspension on my MK 1A, I relocated
my upper a arm pivot points as was recommended for better cornering. The
geometry would keep the tire footprint on the ground in a hard corner due
to
further increasing negitave camber as the car rolled in the turn. The only
problem was that the upper a arm was then too short to get the wheel back
to
somewhere around zero camber while at rest. So I live with approx 1-5/8 neg
camber. I have a couple of questions for the group.
1) Is this still done at all, and if not how does one compensate for the
increasing positive camber purposely designed into the system to make the
car push in a turn? I really don't know if stock geometry and fat sway bars
are the answer.
2) Is there any negitive effects of this a arm relocation other than the
inability to get zero camber at rest?
3) Would there be any value to having custom length upper a arms made to
get
the "best of both worlds"?
4) I have installed the MG rack conversion that cuts the ackerman angle
problem roughly in half, what toe settings are you using?
5) What do you guys feel the ideal front end alignment specs are?
Thank you in advance.-Brad _______________________________________________
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