List,
My understanding of clutch adjustment is that when the clutch is all the way
out, the TB must not be touching the fingers of the clutch. If they are,
than early burnout is inevitable. The TB bearing is NOT designed to spin
all of the time, only when the clutch is engaged.
The way I adjust a clutch is to have the slave completely compressed, then
adjust the adjustable rod, so that when the return spring bottoms out the
slave, there is still just enough slack in the fork that you can feel that
the bearing is not touching the clutch fingers. If you cannot move the fork
for and aft (or up and down) just a little with your fingers, It's too
tight.
If you don't start with the slave totally compressed you might push the
slave piston out of the cyl. It only moves a short distance to begin with,
so best to start at the very end. Also remember the return spring
(connected to the clutch fork) is what returns the piston (and clutch pedal)
to the start position, not the clutch springs, they will return it only as
far as when the clutch is fully engaged.
Some guys like to sit at a light and continue holding the clutch down for
the whole time, I prefer not to do this just because it puts more strain on
the TB.
Just my thoughts.
Jerry Christopherson
9473187
-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tom Parker
Sent: Monday, May 31, 2010 11:06 AM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Clutch cylinder rod adjustment
There's been lots of talk about throwout bearings. I wonder...
Is there a problem with the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder?
The original slave push rod in my Tiger was a cut off carriage bolt. When I
replaced the clutch the first time it lasted less than a year. My theory at
the time (1984) was the slave cylinder was sticking, so I installed a
"return spring" on the pivot arm. It worked until the car was
"de-comissioned" around 1995. Now that I'm in the process of restoring the
car I bought the proper push rod from Rick at SS. To my surprise, it's
adjustable! A good thing except.... there is no mention of the adjustment in
the workshop manual.
So.... any thoughts on adjusting the clutch push rod? My inclination is to
lengthen the rod until the slave cylinder piston is pushed back as far as it
will go. but I may run out of threads before that. The next alternative is
to adjust the rod for proper clutch engagement (starts to engage a bit off
the floor, fully engaged with pedal "slack" travel at the top. About the
same as with my '57 Ford in 1963.
A bit of guidance will be much appreciated. I have no desire to pull the
engine again.
Tom
'67 Tiger 2
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