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Re: [Tigers] Valve Train

To: Karl Adey <sunbeamkarl@hotmail.com>, The LIST Post <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Valve Train
From: Sandy Ganz <sganz@pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 16:23:36 -0800 (PST)
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: tigers@autox.team.net
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References: <COL002-W9CC5A729E89268676C358B81E0@phx.gbl>
You should be fine, note that the roller rockers need very little oil to
function. The SBF stock valve covers are very close to the rockers and should
provide a lot of oil drip on the spring and such. Easy way is to fire it up
and 
see where the oil is on. I guess this would be an easy task on most cars,
but if 
you are worried I would just pop a cover and take a look. The
instructions seem 
to be more concerend with 'To avoid galling of the push
rods, Piviot ball and 
Rocker' really might not apply given you are using
roller rockers. I have never 
run them on the race car, but that's a bit
different application, I can say it 
does not get a lot of oil due to the
mechanical rollers, doesn't need much with 
rollers. 


Don't know if you can
peek in the valve cover or use a borescope (sp) to see 
what's up. I think
they are inexpensive now a days < 100 bucks

Don't get too hung up on all the
'negative' press on hivol pumps either unless 
you see you pressure gauge
hammered after warm up. The oil pressure of the 
engine is what's important
and if the pump is producing too much pressure it 
ends up getting bypassed by
the internal regulator, and helps heat up your oil  
a bit. Also the stock
tiger oil system is restrictive due to the really small -8 
lines used for the
external filter and likely a better pump is all good. 


For the pump rod
don't worry about replacing it from below, pull the distributor 
and pull from
the top if you must change it. You like will have to mess with the
distributor any-a-ways so no reason to take it from the bottom I can think of.
I 
would always use a ARP or similar HIPO shaft it's low cost insurance and
easy to 
change from the top. Some of shafts have an E-Clip to keep from
falling through 
the pan, the newer ARP's also have it as the wont drop to the
pan but can 
actually get JAMMED between the block and pump, ask how I know...
Sandy

----- Original Message ----
From: Karl Adey <sunbeamkarl@hotmail.com>
To: The LIST Post <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, January 30, 2013 1:36:22
PM
Subject: [Tigers] Valve Train

I installed a high output oil pump in my
stock 260 when having the engine
rebuilt.  Now I'm having second (and
potentially expensive/delaying)
thoughts.
So the 260 is very nearly stock,
except for the oil pump, hardened valve
seats, valves, springs, hydraulic
lifters, roller rockers and pushrods.  All
are mid performance items from
reputable/ Made in USA companies.  Stock block,
heads, oil pan, cam, crank
etc.The instructions for my roller rockers (COMP
Cams) says that if I put in a
high pressure oil pump I need a "set of valve
train oil deflectors to put over
the rocker arms, ensuring that the oil does
not shoot over the top of the
rockers."  To avoid galling of push rods, rod
seats, pivot ball and
rocker.Looked up valve train oil deflectors and have
only found for "Chevy and
Ford 302" from Moroso.  Not only is that not my
application, the listing says
that extra clearance may be needed at the valve
cover and I REALLY wanted to
use original 'chrome' valve covers.  Not to
mention, the pictures of the
deflectors look as though they are nearly the
same distance from the rockers
as the valve covers would be...I also read
somewhere some other, maybe
related, negative comments about high
volume/pressure oil pumps.  At this
point I'm almost tempted to change it out,
but would really prefer not to.  It
is my understanding that the oil pump rod
uses gravity to stay in place.  Is
it possible to replace the unit from
bellow?  Without removing timing cover/
bell housing?I appreciate any insight
offered.KarlMK1
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