The mini-starter I have (some unknown brand...) was clock-able so that I could
arrange the parts to not interfere with the header tubes.
Depending on the headers, the clearance to the oil filter adapter is very
tight. But the oil flows fast enough that it's not going to be heated
significantly going through the passage past the header tube; also, you should
get the headers ceramic coated after you figure out all the places they need
to be tweaked to allow you to install them.
If you have motor mounts with different thicknesses you'll need to go back and
find proper ones that are handed correctly, and that are the same thickness...
no need to make things more difficult than they already are.
Extra thickness may help with fan to rack clearance, although that may be more
easily achieved with motor mount spacers and/or heat shields.
Theo
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joel Martin
> Sent: March 24, 2013 10:33 AM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Brake Fluid Capacity and Hi - Torque Starter Question
>
> All
>
> Does anyone know the capactiy of the brake line system with stock
> Girling master cylinder and brake booster. We have put in a quart of
> silicone so far with none coming out of the wheel cylinders or calipers
> in front. Leaking booster internally is now a fear even after
> rebuilding with no leaks in the lines so far.
>
> I am trying to use Sunbeam Specialities headers on a 66 MK 1A. This is
> proving to be very difficult on a 289 HiPo motor. Fitting around motor
> mounts, frame, steering column, starter and now the remote oil filter
> set up.
> If we use the stock motor block to remote oil filter hoses etc up, with
> one hose coming out of the center and the other pointing to the front
> of car, the one out of the center will be within 1/16" of the front
> tube header. I am afraid this would just boil the oil going thru that
> line. Is there a part that moves BOTH the inlet and outlet hoses to
> the front of the car as opposed to the center and front outlet
> configuration.
>
> The stock starter appears to have to have the passenger side headers
> removed or at least loose with motor mount off and now bench testing
> starter even after a rebuilt appears bad.
>
> Does anyone know of a manufacture and part number for a hi torque
> EXTERNAL soloniod starter that works with SS headers? I will call Rick
> on Monday but thought I would pose this question to those already
> having been down this road.
>
> Also, the Federal Mogel engine mounts rubber are 2 different size
> thickness with the same thickness. One being 1.25" and 1 being 1"
> thickness putting undue stress on 1.25" side with twisting in place - I
> will have to find another 1" if that is the correct one, which I think
> it is. Ideas?
>
> Challanges, challenges.
>
> Thanks in advance.
> Joel Martin
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>
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>
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