I just spoke to Rick and ordered rebuild kits. He said that the supplier
of the rebuild kits is very clear, in writing, that their rubber will
withstand any of the fluids. He said that the supplier of the actual
masters and slaves is not so clear.
Rick also said that he sells LMA, but has a hard time getting it himself.
I also mentioned my idea of going with a larger slave or smaller master to
make the effort a little less. He said that usually since most of the
Tigers disengage at the bottom, and mine disengages up at the top, I might
be able to make that swap. Except, he said the slave is already pretty big
and the master pretty small, and he does not know of available
alternatives. I don't know what kind of clutch is in there. I think Dan
Walters was the last one in there ages ago, but doesn't remember.
Jay
On Mon, Apr 22, 2013 at 9:03 AM, <MWood24020@aol.com> wrote:
> **
> The additives in Castrol LMA supposedly soften the o-rings (even EPDM) and
> allow them to roll. DOT 3 is commonly considered a better bet...at least
> that's what we run in the Formula Fords and other race cars using the
> Girling MC.
>
> In a message dated 4/22/2013 8:08:01 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> mark.rense@ge.com writes:
>
> Jay,
> I went through some of my SAE journals a while back to look for the real
> skinny on brake fluids. DOT 5 is silicon based and is not recommended for
> open
> systems like those found on vintage cars. The DOT 5 is non-hygroscopic so
> it
> will not absorb moisture but since our systems are not sealed moisture
> gets in
> and it collects in the low spots of the system, this will cause piston
> corrosion in calipers and scuffing of the piston rubber in slaves. This
> may be
> why your Dad did the clutch but not the brake system. A DOT 5 fluid is also
> more compressible than a DOT 4 so the pedal will feel spongier. The only
> real
> advantage to DOT 5 is that it will not ruin paint when (notice I didn't say
> "if") the master/slave cylinder fails. Even though it is now a different
> formula than of old, good old DOT 4 Castrol GTA/LMA it still glycol-based
> and
> will help keep the rubber piston swollen.
>
> The DOT 5.1 is a glycol-based fluid so it is also hydroscopic, its main
> claim
> to fame is that it is a thinner viscosity than DOT 4 which is needed for
> some
> ABS systems to be able to rapid cycle in cold climates. Not many OEM's use
> DOT
> 5, I can only find reference to Harley.
>
> Dry Boiling Point Wet Boiling Point (3% water)
> DOT 3 401F 284F
> DOT 4 446F 311F
> DOT 5 500F 356F
> DOT 5.1 518F 375F
>
> The "wet" boiling point is when the fluid has absorbed 3% water by volume,
> a
> feat that can be accomplished on our cars over one typical damp winter
> storage
> period here in the Midwest. Water can diffuse in through the rubber brake
> hoses as well. Most of my racer buddies have tried DOT 5 and have gone
> back to
> the racing-spec DOT 3 fluids that actually have higher dry boiling points
> than
> DOT 5, they prefer the harder pedal feel.
>
> I know many Tiger folks that have used DOT 5 without a problem, so it's up
> to
> you. In your climate moisture is not a big problem, I suggest you stay with
> the DOT 4 Castrol GTA/LMA for the brake system and flush it every other
> year.
> I made a power bleeder by finding an old master cylinder cap and fitting an
> air hose chuck. Fill the reservoir and use about 10 psi to push out all the
> old fluid. I can power bleed the brakes in about 1/2 hour.
>
> As for your clutch, you will need to rebuild the slave for sure, so the
> easiest way out is to do that and stay with the DOT 5, just don't mix the
> two
> fluids up! Make sure you check inside the firewall for signs of the leaks
> from
> either MC as well.
>
> Bugz
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Jay Laifman
> Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2013 11:19 PM
> To: Tiger's Den
> Subject: [Tigers] Clutch - DANG IT!!!!!
>
>
> I just did a search in the archives and found that my dad did put DOT 5 in
> the
> clutch.
>
> Ok, so what do I do? Rebuild the master and clutch?
> _______________________________________________
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>
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