triumphs
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: voltage stabilizer

To: ristroph@csra.net, triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: voltage stabilizer
From: DANMAS@aol.com
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 14:32:46 -0400 (EDT)
In a message dated 97-04-19 13:49:20 EDT, you write:

<< The wiring diagram in the Haynes manual shows a light green and pink wire
going into the voltage stabilizer, I assume that its a light green and pink
wire on the other side going to the gauges.  

According to the wiring diagrams I have for a Spit, there should be a light
green wire coming FROM the stabilizer TO the gauges. There should be a green
wire going TO the stabilizer. All Triumphs and MGs I have seen use this color
code. The green wire (all green wires) is hot when the key switch is on. 

 << Does anyone know what amount of voltage should be coming through the wire
after the voltage stabilizer to the gauges?  I think if I can get a voltage
amount I can track it down with the multimeter. >>

It doesn't matter, because you won't be able to measure it with a normal
multimeter. The stabilizer is a thermal device, that is, the current through
it heats up a resistance wire, heating it up. The wire is wrapped around a
bi-metal strip. When it gets hot, it bends, opening the switch to the
stabilizer, cutting off current. As it cools, the switch is again closed, and
the cycle repeats. The heat element is precisely matched to the gauges. A
multimeter does not draw enough current to operate the stabilizer, so you
will see battery voltage on the output. The current to the gauges is the
AVERAGE of the on-off pulses.

The gauges are also thermal devices, so the on-off time is long, compared to
the heating/cooling of the gauge bimetal strips, so the pulses are smoothed
out.

The stabilizer is non polarity sensitive, and neither are the gauges. Connect
from any existing green wire to one side of the stabilizer, and a wire of
your color choice to the gauges, and you should be alright.

Dan Masters,
Alcoa, TN

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>