John L. Walker wrote:
> anyway, I'm going to test my rebuild skills with the
> clutch master cylinder... so far my biggest roadblock
> is getting the @#$! flare nuts to let go of the main
> casting. I think I'm going to the hardware store soon
> to get a refreshed supply of potions and elixir -- and
> maybe a propane torch too.
The trick to these is to use plenty of penetrating
lubricant (Liquid Wrench, or similar), the proper tools,
and lots of patience... If you damage the nut, you'll
need to replace the portion of line with the nuts.
For the clutch cylinder, at least that's a pretty short
line, and not difficult to replace.
However, here is what I would suggest doing to get the
flare nut off without damaging it:
1) Soak the whole thing liberally with penetrating
oil. Lightly tap the joint for about 2 minutes,
if you can stand the boredom for that long.
2) Before trying to turn the nut with a regular wrench,
go to your favorite tool place, and buy a good flare
nut wrench. This is a six-sided wrench with a
cut-out to go around a hydraulilc line. This is *THE*
tool to use.
3) Now that you are back home again, and the penetrating
oil has had about an hour to do its thing, tap the
joint some more, and put on some more penetrating oil.
Now, gingerly, attempt to remove the flare nut with
your new tool. DON'T turn hard enough to round the nut
off. You'll be able to feel when this is just starting
to happen. In that case, STOP.
4) Tap the joint some more, then go do something else until
the next morning.
5) The next morning, put on more penetrating oil, tap the
joint some more, and don't even bother trying the wrench.
Enjoy your day doing something else.
6) When evening rolls around, put on more penetrating oil, tap
some more, and don't mess with that wrench yet. You're
probably tired after a long day, and shouldn't mess with
a stubborn fitting when you're tired -- you may do something
which you'll regret later.
7) The next morning, do some final taps on that joint, and go
at it with the flare nut wrench. If it really doesn't seem
to want to budge, you can try tightening it a little. This
may sound crazy, but this "trick" sometimes helps loosen
the corrosion bonding the joint together. At this point,
the nut should come off. If it doesn't you can go back
to step 3 if you have more time. Otherwise, do anything it
takes to get the fitting off, but count on replacing the
hydraulic line, and possibly the master cylinder.
In my experience, the above technique has always worked for me
(lots of penetrating oil, proper tools, and patience) except
on some '75 TR6 air rail fittings on a severely rusted exhaust
manifold.
Be patient.
--ken
'70 & '74 TR6 Daily Drivers
--
Kenneth B. Streeter | EMAIL: streeter@sanders.com
Sanders, PTP2-A001 |
PO Box 868 | Voice: (603) 885-9604
Nashua, NH 03061 | Fax: (603) 885-0631
|