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Re: TR6 Clutch Adjust.

To: "Martin Libhart" <mlibhart@feist.com>, <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: TR6 Clutch Adjust.
From: "Nick" <Nickbk@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 1997 22:00:45 -0700

> A recent discussion concerning TR6 clutch assemblies has me again
> curious about something....with a properly adjusted clutch, does the
> release bearing rest against the pressure plate cover and rotate AT ALL
> TIMES, or only when pedal is pushed to disengage the pressure plate?  I
> thought the latter - only when disengaging the plate.  Am I correct??
> 
> Martin Libhart
> 1972 TR6 (driver)
> 1970 Spitfire (under the knife)

Martin-

It seems Triumph was acting in our best behalf when they decided to change
the way the slave cylinder adjustment was handled...probably in an effort
to bring the TR series of cars into the realm of "no maintenance" new cars.
Us poor owners just couldn't be expected to grease a ball joint or adjust a
clutch !
On the early cars (3's n 4's), you pushed the slave cyl rod as far back
into the cylinder as it would go, adjusted the rod to give just a
bit-o-play, tightened the lock nut, attached the external return spring,
climbed out from under and drove off into the sunset. Somewhere in the TR4
production run (I think), Triumph had a better idea. They installed a
spring inside the cylinder to push the piston out against the now
unadjustable rod. Voila, a no maintenance clutch adjustment. Unfortunately,
this setup allows the throw out bearing to be in contact with the pressure
plate, forcing it to spin most all of the time. Oh, I hate it when that
happens...SO, as a result, all of my cars have been "retro fitted" with the
older style system. (I really hate to pull a gearbox just to change a throw
out bearing). You can either fit all the old pieces, or make your own. A
5/16" threaded clevis end is available at most any good hardware store,
while you're there, grab a grade 8 5/16" bolt about 6" in length, a
matching nut to use as a lock nut against the clevis, and a
moderately strong spring (one a little stiffer than a screen door spring
should do it). Cut the head off of the bolt (you'll have to trial fit until
you get the right length) and grind and smooth the end to look like the
unadjustable end of the old rod, so that it will fit into the piston.
Install the new rod/clevis, attach the spring so that it pulls the rod back
into the cylinder, adjust as above, and ride off into aforementioned
sunset.

Never one to leave well enough alone...
        Nick in Nor Cal 

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