>My Spit's clutch has bad trouble disengaging. Here's what I know about
>my situation:
The hydraulics are pretty straight forward to check. If they are
leaking, fluid will disapear out of the resevoir quite quickly. There
will be fluid leaking out of the offending component at the piston side.
If there's no sign of leaking, start checking hydraulic operation. Does
the slave piston particularly move? If not, rebleed. But, when you do
so, break the connection where the line joins the master cylinder. It's
pretty common to get and keep air in the lines, the air rises faster
then you pump it out bleeding at the slave (or caliper, or wheel
cylinder) end. So push the pedal down, crack the line, and let fluid
leak out there. Hopefully you'll hear the snap crackle pop of air
bubbles bursting out. This is usually the problem I've found with
suddenly not working hydraulic clutches btw.
If all this is fine, then you've got to go inside the clutch assembly
and investigate. Which means pulling the transmission, though you might
be able to see a bit by using a flashlight, mirror and attempting to
peer in through the slave cylinder hole. Check thoroughly for things
like a cracked and now flexing arm, a dropped pin, broken pressure plate
springs, wrong or missing throwout bearing, and things such as this.
Anything that would allow the hydraulic side to work right, but not
disengage.
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