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V6 Engine swap details (you asked for it :-})

To: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: V6 Engine swap details (you asked for it :-})
From: Barry Schwartz <bschwartz@encad.com>
Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 09:13:18 -0700
The general consensus was go ahead, so here it is.  Remember, these are
only the general specifics.  There are a LOT of little nagging problems
associated with any kind of swap, even swaps involving the exchange of
parts from different years on the same car model - 

The engine (Ford 2.8) is almost stock except for a mild street cam and tube
headers ( required for installation ).  I had to modify the oil pan for
frame clearance, which consisted of notching the front of the pan (for  the
steering rack) and angle notching the  right side of the pan (for clearing
the suspension mounting assembly).  You must use the Capri  rear sump pan
and oil pump assembly.  The EuroFord V6 was derived from a V4 with a
balance shaft mounted in the right side of the block.  When mounting the
engine crankshaft centrally in the frame the engine will appear to be
offset to the right.  This is the extra material left over from the V4
balance shaft casting, the same basic casting with two extra cylinders
added to make it a V6.   Stock mounting locations were used on the frame
but required new mounting brackets for the engine. GT6/TR6 engine mounts
were used and cooling is handled through a custom made, four tube, large,
crossflow radiator with dual thermostatically controlled electric fans.
This car never overheats, even in the hottest weather!  The intake system
is basically stock with a slight modification to the intake manifold.  I
milled approximately 1/2 inch off the carb. mounting flange (for under-hood
clearance) and removed the divider (opened the plenum chambers from two
separate, into one open plenum).  A WEBER 40 DFAV carb. (siamesed opening
of the throttles) feeds fuel, regular 87 oct. unleaded to the engine.
MOBIL 1  15-50 synthetic oil does the oiling job through a heavy duty high
capacity TRW oil pump.  Modifications to the bellhousing consists of
machining out the area where the starter mounts, welding in a new section
for mounting of the 2600 CAPRI starter (smaller than the stock MUSTANG for
frame clearance), and re-drilling/tapping for the starter mounting holes
(it sounds worse than it actually was).  I also moved the throwout bearing
actuating arm from the left to the right side of the bellhousing (again,
for clearance).   The stock Mustang uses a cable operated clutch and I
wanted to keep it hydraulic.  Moving back to the transmission, gear ratios
are stock MUSTANG V6 ratios, and seem perfectly suited for the car.  The
transmission is a BORG-WARNER SR-4 MUSTANG V6 4 speed (the newer 5 speed
would probably fit but I just haven't gotten around to finding out.  I plan
on installing one in the next couple of months [see footnote]).  I used a
Courier/Ford/Mazda clutch slave cylinder mounted on a fabricated bracket to
the right side of the transmission. The only other modifications I made
were to change the tailshaft extension.  This was to bring the shift lever
into the stock TRIUMPH mounting location.  The extension used was from a
1978 AMC SPIRIT (GREMLIN).  This along with the required main shaft was all
that was needed.  Unfortunately, this modification required making a new
transmission yoke to match the rather smallish u-joints TRIUMPH uses.
Mounting of the transmission was handled by manufacturing a new cross
member using the 78' transmission mount.  Shortening the drive shaft the
required amount for the new installation we move on to the rear end!  This
is the weakest part of the drive train.  I blew up three carriers until I
finally got it right!.  I was using the stock SPITFIRE swing spring rear
suspension, which is adequate if you use a carrier from a 76 or later
Spitfire. . . but I just couldn't leave well enough alone!  I decided to
adapt the all-independent GT6+ rear suspension.  The modifications required
were to make and weld new mounting brackets for the lower wishbones (now
you can buy them), also to manufacture and weld the upper shock mounting
brackets into the inner wheel well arches (you can buy these now as well).
1/4" spacers were required at the rear to clear the shocks (wider than
stock tires) at the upper wheel locations hence the 49.50" rear track.  I
also replaced the rotoflex joints and axles with TR6 sliding axle shafts by
re-manufacturing the hubs and differential mounting flanges to accept the
bigger (stronger) TR6 U-joints with axles.  I got real tired of replacing
the rotoflex couplings about every three months!  Apparently the torque of
the little V6 was just too much for the rubber u-joints!  As this car is
constantly evolving I also just completed installing a Quaife torque
sensing diff. I had to replace the 3:27 gears with 3:63 because the Quaife
wouldn't accept the 3:27's.  With the lower ratio I really could use the 5
speed's overdrive!

Footnote:  I have installed the T5, but thats a whole 'nother page.  LOTS
of work, involving some frame trimming, tunnel fabrication, mod's,
machining etc. but well worth it for this engine and this rear end ratio!

Barry Schwartz in San Diego, CA

Bschwartz@encad.com
72-V6/5sp Spitfire ( daily driver )
70 GT6+ ( when I don't drive the Spitfire )
70 (sorta) Spitfire ( project )
73  Ford Courier ( parts hauler )

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