Carol wrote:
>The point that connects to the slave is an odd size, which of course, I
>don't own yet -- will stop by Sears this evening or next, I think it's
>a 15/32 size, different than the bleed screw size (which is puzzling, to
>say the least !).
I have a similar problem with this fitting... it SHOULD be 7/16, and if I
fiddle with it just a little I can get the CRAFTSMAN 7/16 wrench on it, so
it doesn't end up being a big deal.
>Also, the nut where the line attaches to the clutch M/C is most
>interesting. Does anyone have any pointers on how to get to this one ?
>I decided to go ahead and replace the line since the middle bolts are so
>rusty and do not want to move at all.
I have rebuilt, replaced or otherwise removed these components from my car
a million times, (or so it seems) so many times that I can now do the
entire opration, from lifting the car to setting it back on the ground
running, in just under an hour. Access to the nut you speak of is really
not that bad. However, you may have trouble removing it if you don't have
a flare nut wrench, especially if it's been on there a while. Pick up a
flare nut wrench at Sears while you're at it! If you try it with a
standard wrench, you MAY end up rounding off the nut, which makes it even
more difficult to remove!
>Any votes on changing over the braided steel lines offered by Moss ?
>The price is about $10 more, so it's affordable.
I don't know if this would be an advantage for this application... that
orange nylon flex hose on the slave cylinder end is pretty durable and
since it's so stiff, I doubt that it expands much, if any.
>Thanks again for all input & suggestions !
You're quite welcome!
Pete Chadwell
1973 TR6
CF10732
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