From: firstname.lastname@example.org On Behalf Of scott suhring
Sent: Monday, November 10, 1997 12:28 AM
Subject: TR6 Gas Pump Valves
Looking for some advice on rebuilding the gas pump on my
'70 TR6. I purchased a rebuild kit from Moss (TRF did not
have them in stock), removed the pump from the engine block.
After cleaning the cover and upper casing (amazing how polished
it looks after years of grease and dirt), I decided to install
the new valves before cleaning the lower casing and replacing the
Well, it was a tremendous effort just to get the old valves out
(not the easy use of a screw driver as indicated in the shop
manual). Went to install the new valves and it is very apparent
that the bore for the valve to sit in is a smaller diameter
than the valves (very slight variance but enough to deter the
valves from even snuggly fitting into the seat).
I have tried using an extended 1/2 socket which is the size of the
valve and the opening allows for the extended side to face up into
the socket on the intake side. The end result is the output valve
to the carbs is in but slightly cocked, thus not level to the facing.
I haven't tried bashing, I mean forcing the other valve in yet.
Any tricks or words of wisdom to get this job done right? Will the
pump work if the valves are slightly off, not being level as long as
there is a good seal, which I am sure of since the valve is firmly
wedged in its seat.
 Scott I just finished rebuilding my pump on Thursday so I know exactly
what you mean. What I ended up doing was "modifying" my Craftsman 1/2" deep
socket so that it would just barley fit into the hole in the fuel pump housing
where the valves seat. I then tapped the valves in until they bottomed out on
the housing. I really don't know if it will effect the fuel pump operation if
the valves are not in the holes square but being as they do have gaskets in
the bottoms of their bores I suspect that it may. Best of luck Craig
Bentley 71 TR6