Joe Curry wrote:
>
> msecres@ibm.net wrote:
> >
> > Joseph Schneider wrote:
> > >
> > > (snip)
> > > any recommendations
> > > >on what else I should do "WHILE I'M IN THERE"?
> > > >
> > > >Dave Moag
> > > >77 Spitfire
> > > Dave-
> > > *if* needed, since the wheels will be off and the shocks
> disconnected at
> > > one end and the spring disconnected from the vertical links, it's
> probably
> > > a good time to do shocks/rear brake and/or trunnion/bushing
> suspension
> > > stuff-
> > > the grunt part of the job is done from behind the seats via the
> little
> > > access port to the 4 studs holding the center (pivot stuff) of the
> spring
> > > assembly to the top of the differential housing- I don't know that
> there's
> > > anything else to be done "while you're there" unless you have
> shipwrights'
> > > disease and want to do half shaft u-joints, bearings, etc., but
> I'm sure
> > > some of the Spitfire vets like Barry Schwartz and Andy Mace will
> have some
> > > ideas
> > > I found the toughest part of the job (at least two of the nearly 4
> hours I
> > > spent replacing my rear spring) was getting the studs to rethread
> in the
> > > diff housing, I finally succeeded by using a screwdriver to wedge
> the
> > > spring assembly up off the differetial housing because I thought
> the
> > > locating pin on the bottom of the spring pivot setup that mates
> with a
> > > recess in the differential housing was leaving me with too little
> play-
> > > once I wedged it up a bit so the pin/recess weren't engaged, I was
> able to
> > > get the studs to thread, remove the wedge, and the pin dropped
> into place-
> > > second toughest (much easier than above) was getting the pivot
> stuff
> > > (salvaged from the old spring) in place, you need to compress the
> spring
> > > with a vise or suitable alternative to get the holes in the pivot
> > > "shackle", or whatever it's called, to line up with the sleeve so
> the bolt
> > > will pass through
> > > wasn't someone (?Barry) going to write this up and post in the
> tech section
> > > of the VTR web page?
> > > Joe
> > >
> > > The flogging will continue until morale improves
> > > Joseph R Schneider, MD, PhD
> > > Associate Professor of Surgery, Northwestern University Medical
> School
> > > 100 Burch, Evanston Hospital, 2650 Ridge Ave, Evanston, IL 60201
> > > voice: (847) 570-2565 fax: (847) 570-2899 e-mail:
> joe-schneider@nwu.edu
> > > world wide web page:
> http://pubweb.acns.nwu.edu/~jschneid/JRS.HTML
> >
> > Someone should. "I think I'll throw in a new spring" is a cute
> thing to say if you've
> > never done it! It is definitely a b*tch, at least the first time.
> Yeah, rebolting the
> > center cap is the hardest part -- for my two cents, I would say that
> your life is made
> > easier if you MAKE CERTAIN your center housing is centered on the
> spring itself before
> > attempting the rebolt. Use the horizontal bolt as an eyeball guide,
> and make sure the
> > bottom leaf is centered against the others -- i.e., ascertain that
> the spring eye gaps
> > are equal at both ends!
> >
> > Charlie Brown suggested another trick for bolting down the center
> housing (which I did
> > not need to use) -- and that is to find another long bolt the same
> size as the diff
> > studs, file its end to a taper, and use it for locating your
> bolt-ups.
> >
> > In any case, allow some time for the job, and be kinder and gentler
> while you do it.
> >
> > --
> > Martin Secrest
> > 73 GT6
> > 74 Spitfire
>
> I have found that if one removes both axle shafts and then attach the
> spring, it is much easier to position the axle shafts on the spring
> than
> to position the spring on the differential. As long as you are doing
> all that other stuff, you may as well remove the axles as well.
>
> Joe (experience is the best teacher) Curry '63 Spit
OK, I admit I did have both axles out when I replaced my spring.
Larry Zink
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