I find Rimmer Bros. matches Moss in most respects and exceeds them in others.
They
can be reached on +44 1522 526200 or www.rimmerbros.co.uk
Haeg1 wrote:
> I would like to thank anyone who previously e-mailed me regarding the
> restoration of my TR6.
> Latest status:
> 1) The completely striped frame is at the welding shop. I am having the 2
> sections that hold the IRS replaced. (purchased the repair pieces from Moss)
> The welder is going to add support to the rear differential mounts.
> Note: The welder pounded around on the frame all over with a pointy hammer.
> Everything seems solid except for the trailing arm sections.
> 2) All the suspension pieces have been disassembled.
> 3) I have decided to have the frame and suspension pieces sandblasted.
> 4) I have purchased some POR15 that I will be hand brushing onto the frame. I
> will then spray paint the frame and suspension parts gloss black. I'm not sure
> what kind of paint yet.
> 5) The floor of the car is solid, but the outer sills will require
> replacement. I plan on cleaning the underside of the floor down to the bare
> metal using plastic fiber grinding wheels that 3M sells. (suggested by a guy
> at work who does some body work) Then the floor will get metal prep., POR15
> and paint.
> Note: If this works out, I plan on doing the same thing to all the inner wheel
> wells.
>
> Latest Questions:
> 1) Should I replace all the nuts and bolts used on the suspension? I can
> physically clean them up nice with the fine metal brush on my grinding wheel.
> Is there something that I can dip them in so they do not rust?
> 2) I am looking for the best place to purchase mechanical parts. (I'm located
> in the USA) I have a Moss catalog, and I am going to call the Roadster Factory
> on Monday. Any other suggestions?
> 3) Is it recommended to add support to the two rear most differential
> supports? The front two are getting boxed in for sure.
>
> Long term Questions:
> 1) I'm still deciding if I should purchase a MIG welder or leave all the
> welding to the body shop. I have to get the fenders off, and see how bad the
> inner fenders are. The little kid in me wants to do some welding.
> Note: The guy doing the welding on my frame works out of his house, and
> charges $25 hour vs the professional welding shops around here that charge $50
> hour. I was told by several sources that this guy does nice work.
> 2) I have to decide if the front and rear valence should be repaired or
> replaced. This goes the same for the section in front of the rear trunk. They
> have no rust holes, but there are patches of surface rust where they meet the
> fenders.
>
> Thanks for any advice,
> John H. in Minneapolis
> haeg1@aol.com
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