Having already replaced the original motor in my GT-6+ due to a cracked
block (don't bother asking how it got cracked, it's a bit embarrassing) I'll
throw my dollar's worth into this one. I purchased a used motor as a
replacement from a rather large non-LBC specific company and had it
"checked" before it was shipped. The numbers from the compression and
leakdown checks were impressive, this appeared to be a low mileage, snug
little engine. When I received it, I followed the instructions from the
seller, so as not to void the 1 month warranty - changed the front and rear
oil seals, new oil pan gasket, new rocker cover gasket, and new water pump.
I also took the advice of fellow listers and put some lightweight oil down
the cylinders, via the spark plug holes and let it sit for a few days (this
probably saved the rest of the engine).
The engine was impossible to turn by hand, so I bravely grabbed a BFS (BF
screwdriver) and was able to turn the engine by using it on the flywheel
with a dowel used as a fulcrum. Not having done this before or having
anyone around with experience in this area handy, I figured this wasn't
abnormal for an engine that had supposedly been rebuilt previously, then sat
for a few years. I installed the engine into my car, reconnected
everything, and then the fun began. To try and cut to the chase, the
engine did start a couple of times, run for about 5-7 seconds, then quit. I
spent a lot of time and money trying to track the problem down, and finally
came to the conclusion that the electrical, ignition, cooling, and fuel
systems were fine, and that the problem was mechanical in nature. I have
since pulled and dismantled the motor (they really are pretty simple
compared to modern cars) and was able to determine the following; the engine
had been rebuilt - sort of, the main and big end bearings, along with the
thrust washers appear to be "new" showing very little wear, however the
pistons look like originals the carry a STANPART stamp and the following
number 214947 T21. The top rings on all of the pistons rotate freely and
can be removed, however the 2nd and 3rd rings on all pistons are impossible
to budge even after a 3 day bath in Marvel Mystery Oil. The pistons and
cylinders show very little wear, but the pistons appear to have corroded in
the ring lands and below the pins, so I'm trashing them for a full set from
British Parts NW (best price on pistons I've found so far - under $300.00
for the full set - pistons, pins, rings and circlips). I'm also replacing
all of the bearings, bushings, and thrust washers, and I'm having the block
cleaned and checked, then align honed, squared, and bored if required, the
crank is going to be cleaned and checked, machined if required, and
polished, and finally I'm going to have the entire rotating assembly
balanced (I've found a guy here in Oklahoma City who used to work on
Triumphs extensively in the past, and even helped a few of the locals put
race cars together, he comes highly recommended by the local triumph club,
and has over 35 years experience in the machine shop business (doesn't do
much with race cars anymore, mostly into restoration. Bottom line, I would
be pretty concerned with the engine in your car if you didn't use any sort
of storage plan, like some sort of heavy oil down the bores prior storing
it. You might also look at a carb rebuild, due to varnishing from leftover
fuel, when you do this share the floats and shake them to see if you got
fluid in there, that will cause a lot of headaches and possibly a fire due
to excessive flooding if left that way. Remember, it's an old car, and it's
sat for a pretty long time, play it safe - yank the motor, and check
EVERYTHING before heading down the road, it could save you the cost of a
reconditioned short block, and a lot of worries.
BTW, completely flush the hydraulic system, check all brake cylinders for
wear and corrosion, and all associated rubber for dry rot.
Good luck!
Dave Korzun
'69 GT6+
'93 Mustang Cobra
-----Original Message-----
From: M. W. Jordan, Jr. <mw_jordan@mindspring.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, July 07, 1998 4:21 PM
Subject: TR3A Low Oil Pressure
>
>I have a 59 TR3A that I purchased out of a barn about 3 years ago. It had
been
>sitting for about 7 years, but the sheet metal, frame engine and all seemed
in good
>shape. Several months work turned it into a runner.
>
>But the oil pressure seems very low once it has been running for a while.
It
>starts out about 60 lbs cold but after 20 miles or so will only show about
35-40
>lbs at 3000 RPM, and drops t about 1-15 at idle. The engine does not burn
oil, and
>the engine temperature does not seem excessively high - usually runs about
160-180
>when warmed up and maintains constant temp readings.
>
>I suspect the main bearings are worn and could use replacement. I have
read
>several comments about replacing with the engine in the car, but could use
some
>practical guidance here. I would prefer not to pull the engine at the
present
>time, but will do so if the pain of dropping the oil pan and doing it from
below is
>overwhelming.
>
>Would appreciate the guidance of some who have done the task recently. I
am on the
>digest version, so email privately if you prefer.
>
>Thanks
>
>M. W. Jordan, Jr.
>Marietta, GA
>
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