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RE: Rheostat and Tach TR6

To: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net, "'Bud_Rolofson@nps.gov'" <Bud_Rolofson@nps.gov>
Subject: RE: Rheostat and Tach TR6
From: Gernot Vonhoegen <gernot.vonhoegen@stir.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 12:24:25 +0100


> ----------
> From:         Bud_Rolofson@nps.gov[SMTP:Bud_Rolofson@nps.gov]
> Reply To:     Bud_Rolofson@nps.gov
> Sent:         Wednesday, July 08, 1998 3:57 PM
> To:   triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject:      Rheostat and Tach TR6
> 
> 
> Have been enjoying the dickens out of driving my new TR6 since picking
> it up on
> Monday.  It rained on Monday but cleared by Tuesday AM and I've had
> the top down
> ever since.  Nothing like riding to work at 6:00 AM with the cool
> morning air.
> 
Could be, I never get up that early, I hate early mornings but may be
the ride in a TR makes it more enjoyable.

> Have only had to fix three things so far.  The brake servo adapter
> (for the
> vacuum assist on the brakes) was loose at the manifold so I tightened
> it up (one
> less vacuum leak).  The line doesn't have a clamp but has clamp marks
> so Isuppose I should clamp that line to the adapter.
> 
Doesn't really matter, I neyer noticed any influence on anything, but of
course I keep a clamp on them as well.

> running smoothly.  Puzzled on that one until I noticed that the tach
> needle
> stuck at 1000 RPM with the engine off.  A light tap on the tach glass
> made it
> bounce back to 0 RPM.  Which leads to:
> 
> Question 1)  Is it the tach (a Smiths) or the cable sticking?  What's
> a good way to diagnose that?  Can either of them be cleaned (always my
> first inclination) or lubricated?  
> 
Its the tach. sticking cable shows up as erratic movements of the cable.
Anyway you should probably take out the cable and lubricate it. I use
grease, you can use engine oil as well. You can clean the tach but its
easyly damaged so if you are worried you should let someone else do it.
(I opened a coupe of them, the only thing that I can repair is the
odometer.)


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