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Re: fuel pump problems

To: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: fuel pump problems
From: kinderlehrer@mindspring.com (Kinderlehrer's)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 00:00:17 -0400 (EDT)
>In a message dated 98-07-21 14:19:58 EDT, berny.pellaers@ping.be writes:
>
>> I think I have a problem with the fuel pump of my TR4. Sometimes while
>>  driving the motor drops out, after restarting I can keep on driving, and
>>  after a little while, the motor drops out again. The motor keeps on doing
>>  this several times, until the motor can't be restarted.
>>  When starting again, the motor starts up, runs for a few seconds and drops
>>  down immediately.
>>
>>  Being no mechanic, I would appreciate all the tips and solutions you all
>>  can give me the help me solve this problem.
>>
>>  Many thanks in advance.
>>
>>  Berny
>>
>>
>
>Berny, you need to check "fuel and fire."  I have had similar problems.  Most
>of the time it was the ignition; only once was it the fuel pump.
>
>First disconnect the fuel line leading to the carbs, put a small jar under it
>and crank the engine.  If fuel spurts out your pump is OK.  Go to the next
>paragraph to check "fire"-- meaning the ignition.  If no fuel spurts out, then
>the pump is the problem.   If you have an original pump there is a small lever
>on the pump outboard of the engine.  Pump that and see if gas spurts out into
>the jar.  If it does then check to see if the pump is connected properly to
>the block and if the lever that goes into the engine is seated properly.  Then
>follow Malcolm's post.
>
>Next check for fire.  Pull a spark plug wire off one of the plugs.  Hold it
>with an insulted pliers or a heavy glove and place the tip near the block.
>Watch out, it will bite you if you become the ground.  If you do not get a
>large spark, then the ignition is faulty.  If no spark, take the distributor
>cap off and look at the points.  Are they pitted or misadjusted?  Check the
>wires inside the cap on the plate.  There is a small plastic cylinder which
>goes vertically through the black and orange wires.  If this is broken it will
>short out the points.  (This cylinder is over the screw to which the "lever"
>from the points is connected and to which you hook the wires).  Check the
>other black wires inside the distributor.  If any wires are broken or worn,
>replace them.  If the points are pitted or misadjusted or the plastic is
>broken, change the points and the condensor.  Be careful to gap the points
>(.025 if you are running a regular coil).  Next check the distributor cap for
>cracks (or tell-tale tracks) from the center connector to the outer
>connectors.  If you see "tracks" you need to replace the cap.
>
>That's a start.  Let us know what you find when you test for fuel and fire.
>We'll go from there.  Cheers.
>
>Art Kelly

Just a suggestion, but I think I would remove the fuel bowl at the pump and
clean it, including replacing the screen. Seems like a simple thing to do
before draining the tank. It may only be a temporary fix, but I have been
getting away this temporary fix for a year.  Also replace any other filters
that may have been put in-line,  If there are none, put one in.


Bob



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