Art has some great advice... to add to this...
If fuel does NOT spurt out...
It still may not be your pump...
Remove the line on the other side of the pump... and be sure that fuel is
flowing
from the gas tank. ON TR 4/4As... fuel should flow readily from gravity. (If
you're not familiar with TR's... remember this fuel flows FAST... be sure you
have
a way to block it off if, for example, if the hose cracks/tears on
removing...etc. And take the usual precautions when gasoline is around!)
When I was working the bugs out of my current driver... it had an intermittent
fuel failure that turned out to be various cloggeed lines... and muck in the gas
tank...
The muck in the gas tank was the real teaser... sometimes letting fuel flow,
sometimes blocking it...
Removing the tank and properly cleaning out solved this problem.
--Justin
ArthurK101@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 98-07-21 14:19:58 EDT, berny.pellaers@ping.be writes:
>
> > I think I have a problem with the fuel pump of my TR4. Sometimes while
> > driving the motor drops out, after restarting I can keep on driving, and
> > after a little while, the motor drops out again. The motor keeps on doing
> > this several times, until the motor can't be restarted.
> > When starting again, the motor starts up, runs for a few seconds and drops
> > down immediately.
> >
> > Being no mechanic, I would appreciate all the tips and solutions you all
> > can give me the help me solve this problem.
> >
> > Many thanks in advance.
> >
> > Berny
> >
> >
>
> Berny, you need to check "fuel and fire." I have had similar problems. Most
> of the time it was the ignition; only once was it the fuel pump.
>
> First disconnect the fuel line leading to the carbs, put a small jar under it
> and crank the engine. If fuel spurts out your pump is OK. Go to the next
> paragraph to check "fire"-- meaning the ignition. If no fuel spurts out, then
> the pump is the problem. If you have an original pump there is a small lever
> on the pump outboard of the engine. Pump that and see if gas spurts out into
> the jar. If it does then check to see if the pump is connected properly to
> the block and if the lever that goes into the engine is seated properly. Then
> follow Malcolm's post.
>
> Next check for fire. Pull a spark plug wire off one of the plugs. Hold it
> with an insulted pliers or a heavy glove and place the tip near the block.
> Watch out, it will bite you if you become the ground. If you do not get a
> large spark, then the ignition is faulty. If no spark, take the distributor
> cap off and look at the points. Are they pitted or misadjusted? Check the
> wires inside the cap on the plate. There is a small plastic cylinder which
> goes vertically through the black and orange wires. If this is broken it will
> short out the points. (This cylinder is over the screw to which the "lever"
> from the points is connected and to which you hook the wires). Check the
> other black wires inside the distributor. If any wires are broken or worn,
> replace them. If the points are pitted or misadjusted or the plastic is
> broken, change the points and the condensor. Be careful to gap the points
> (.025 if you are running a regular coil). Next check the distributor cap for
> cracks (or tell-tale tracks) from the center connector to the outer
> connectors. If you see "tracks" you need to replace the cap.
>
> That's a start. Let us know what you find when you test for fuel and fire.
> We'll go from there. Cheers.
>
> Art Kelly
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