In a message dated 98-10-05 12:43:02 EDT, musson@satie.arts.usf.edu writes:
> What is the correct manner in which to hook up a pair of fog lamps on a
> TR3?
Carl,
Here's what I'd do (for any car): Use one relay for the fog lights, and
another for the driving lights, both fed from the same fused lead from the
battery connection on the solenoid. Then, I would use a three position switch
(readily available at most any auto parts store for around $5), wired as
follows - with the switch in the up position, the fog lights would be on if
and only if the parking lights were on. With the switch in the center
position, neither the fog nor the driving lights would be on. With the switch
in the down position, the driving lights would be on if and only if the high
beams were on.
Reasons for this?
1) You won't have to remember to turn of another switch when you turn off the
main lights, as the fog or driving lights will automatically go off.
2) No worry about blinding an oncoming driver, as the driving lights will go
off when you dim the main lights.
3) If you really need the driving lights, you also need the high beams.
4) In a very heavy fog, even the low beams may be blinding to you, reflecting
off the fog, so you want to be able to have only the parking and the fog
lights on.
5) you will never need both the fog and the driving lights on at the same
time.
6) One switch will do the function of two, which may make it easier to find a
place to mount it.
7) One fused lead will do, as both lights will never be on at the same time.
When you mount your lights, remember the differences in the light pattern from
the two types. A fog light has a very sharp cut off, limiting the light to a
narrow band just above the pavement. This allows the light to go under the
fog, eliminating glare from the light bouncing off the fog. For this reason,
the fog lights should be mounted as low as possible.
Driving lights, on the other hand, are intended to have a long, penetrating
beam, designed to light up the road as far ahead as possible. For this reason,
they should be mounted as high as possible.
If this sounds like something you would want to do, let me know, and I will
draw up a schematic and a connection diagram, and e-mail it to you as a JPG
file.
Dan Masters,
Alcoa, TN
'71 TR6---------3000mile/year driver, fully restored
'71 TR6---------undergoing full restoration and Ford 5.0 V8 insertion - see:
http://www.sky.net/~boballen/mg/Masters/index.html
'74 MGBGT---3000mile/year driver, original condition - slated for a V8 soon
'68 MGBGT---organ donor for the '74
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