Robert,
Many thanks for the reply. I didn't realise that the t/arms were of
aluminium plate construction. Given the galvanic effects, I'm not sure
that the bolt/stud extractor is going to do it. My previous stud removal
nightmares all have the same ingedients: hard stud/soft boss. My successes
with stud extractors are limited to semi-lubricated and similar metal
situations. I sought advice from a local performance shop, and their
advice was drill our verrrrry carefully and re-tap the threads, and pray
that you don't damage the boss. So it looks like I know which way I've got
to go.
Your point about the PO raises another question: is the loss of bump stops
unusual? And if not, what can I do to make sure I don't loose the new ones!
Thanks
Tony
'72 TR6 CC79849U
At 12:16 10/9/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi,
>
>The stud part of the bump stops are steel, the trailing arm - aluminium.
>
>The answer is "galvanic corrosion" and those things can be a real bitch to
>get out. Seeing that your DPO took the liberty to reduce your old bump
>stops to basically a headless bolt, then you don't have much choice.
>
>You'll need a bolt extractor and a little heat. Center punch the bolt then
>drill it out to accomodate an extractor then heat the trailing arm with
>propane for a while... when it gets hot enough, that bolt will come right
out.
>
>When you reassemble, put a little anti-sieze compound on the new bump stop
>and you won't have this problem the next time...
>
>Oh - did you figure out why the bump stop was hacked off??? You should,
>because there might be other problems back there...
>
>Good luck.
>rml
>TR6's
>
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