On Tue, 13 Oct 1998, Tony Gordon wrote:
> Robert,
>
> Many thanks for the reply. I didn't realise that the t/arms were of
> aluminium plate construction. Given the galvanic effects, I'm not sure
> that the bolt/stud extractor is going to do it. My previous stud removal
> nightmares all have the same ingedients: hard stud/soft boss. My successes
> with stud extractors are limited to semi-lubricated and similar metal
> situations. I sought advice from a local performance shop, and their
> advice was drill our verrrrry carefully and re-tap the threads, and pray
> that you don't damage the boss. So it looks like I know which way I've got
> to go.
Actually - you should always _try_ to remove the old piece first.
Seriously, center-punch that bolt shank and drill it out for a number 2
extractor. Then heat the casting for a while with propane. That baby'll
come right out. I've actually done this - it really is not that hard. You
just have to be patient.
> Your point about the PO raises another question: is the loss of bump stops
> unusual? And if not, what can I do to make sure I don't loose the new ones!
When the rubber gets hard and the sagging springs get soft - it's
actually pretty easy to rip the rubber right off. The normal case is that
the fat whasher "head" that is under the rubber is exposed at this point,
and the normal method of removal is to heat the casting, grab the head
with a pair of pliers and have at it. If the head is gone - then the
amount of work goes up considerably.
The bottom line - if you corner really hard or you drive over excessivly
bumpy roads and bottom out the suspension, you can break the rubber cones
off.
One of my parts cars was used in the Baja 1000, I think ;-). All the bump
stops were pounded off and the bump stop platform on the inner fender on
the rear (both sides) was moved up about an inch or so... pretty amazing.
As for potiential problems in your rear suspension, you need to make sure
the springs are adequate and you need to make sure that nothing is loose.
Any of these items will lead to excessive suspension movement - this will
cause the car to "bottom".
Oh, and make sure the bump stops on the frame that limit "axle droop" are
okay too - if the axle "droops" too much, the axle can hit the frame.
This is not a good thing as the axle can fail. I believe this is what
Kastner refers to in the Comp. Prep book... so get 4 rubber cones and
replace them all.
> Thanks
>
> Tony
>
> '72 TR6 CC79849U
Yer welcome and Later,
rml
TR6's including CF14111U, CC27777U and CC83xxx (really nasty parts car).
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