Vic,
Re: the starting problem. I had the same situation when I owned a Spit.
Turned out that the choke cable was hanging up and not fully opening the
choke when I pushed it in. It was fine unless I tried to restart the car
when teh engine was warm. I had to go under the hood (sorry, bonnet,) and
open the choke manually. Then it started right up.
Bob
>Greetings Lists,
>
>Well, thanks to the help of a friend and the purchase of a parts car,
>I've got my Spit running again. I have a few questions, though.
>
>1) A strange problem with restarting the engine after driving for a bit.
>Simply put, after driving for more than 5 or 10 minutes, stopping the
>car, going into a store, returning to head home, while trying to restart
>the car, it's just a bear to start. I usually have to wait about 3
>minutes before it will actually kick over and run. There is a hint of
>some blue smoke, not much at all, really. One thought comes to mind as I
>write this is vapor lock...maybe? What are other things I should check?
>
>2) What I thought might be u-joint or a weak rear spring turns out to
>still be a puzzle for me. The rear end is now making a squeaking noise
>(we've dubbed it the "monkey")... It sounds as if each rotation of the
>driveshaft or axles is making contact with some metal, letting out a
>screach, squeal or low pitched chirp. Sounds to be metal on metal. It
>only happens during accellaration or when the weight is transferred to
>the rear of the car. Any ideas?
>
>3) (and last) My Spit was in a front end accident which mangled the
>front chassis/bumber cross member. I would like to use the one off the
>new parts car and weld it on to my [soon to be] driver. This will allow
>all the front end parts to fit properly, unlike now. New bumper, bonnet,
>etc... How difficult is this? How much might I expect to pay for the
>welding? I would prep both cars for the welding work (removing all
>parts, etc)...
>
>Thanks for any and all input!
>
>Vic
|