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Re: best rust killer?

To: CarlSereda@aol.com
Subject: Re: best rust killer?
From: karen hakala & tim hutchisen <hakhutch@megalink.net>
Date: Sun, 09 May 1999 10:16:36 -0500
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <ed74b142.2464d2bf@aol.com>
Carl-
   I recently used Por 15's trunk & floorboard kit on my TR6. Not owning a 
welder
and the skills to use one, I needed to repair the drivers side floorboard. It 
was
pinholed with rust with the largest hole being 1" or so in diameter, 
structurally
it was sound however.I am quite happy with the results of the kit. They include 
a
mesh sheet that covers larger holes and aids structural strength, for my
application, this got covered by carpeting so it is hidden. I wouldn't use this
system if it were going to be "out in plain view". I was careful applying the 
Por
15 in and around bolt heads and re-tapped any holes after it dryed.I also was
careful around the edges of the floorboard not to lap the paint and mesh up over
the sills and neighboring panels as someday I want to fix the floorboard
"correctly" with a new one.For my budget a $125.00 fix and a couple of days 
labor
was easier to swallow then a new floorboard and paying someone to install it.I
have no financial interest in Por 15 but recommend it for tight-budgeted LBC
owners and non-concours drivers like mine.
Tim Hutchisen
CC57787L

CarlSereda@aol.com wrote:

> Hi List,
> On my CA TR4 I've scraped 30 year old gobs of grease/dirt and a my share of
> rust out of the engine compartment, interior floors & up under the dash, the
> entire undercarriage and suspension and in the trunk.. with a tiny 'jewelers'
> screwdriver ..well ok it was a three quarter inch putty knife but ... whew I
> must want this car!
> I have two small areas of 'rust through' ... drivers left floor corner, and
> passenger interior sill seam. I am hoping I don't have to do welding as I
> think some fiberglasss mesh and some specialized 'rust inhibitor bondo' (NEW
> on the market!) or a little 'tin and screw' work will be enough (strength of
> areas seem sufficient) First I want to use some rust killer like 'Naval
> Jelley', and then I think some 'Extend' brand rust killer paint.
> Question to you good folks is two-fold:
>
> 1) I've heard and seen some restorers using a product called 'POR15' (and
> other brands?) - a car restoration rust product that is a thick paint that
> digests rust and then acts as paintable primer coat). Do you recommend it? my
> only concern is it seems too thick and would be a bear to get bolts undone
> later ..or scrape off in twenty years (25 years ago I swabbed my inside floor
> pans with a tar based undercoating and boy that was a bear to get off last
> few days to get at some rust).
> So what do you think of POR 15?
>
> 2) My whole (body on frame), but 'stripped out' car is a foot up in the air
> so I am limited in options but wondering if I should blast everything with
> degreaser and water OR leave the fine layer of petrolem products as rust
> protection. (I don't exactly want to soak every crevice of the car with
> chemicals and water but would like to paint some exposed metal areas on the
> frame and panels.
> Any thoughts on this one?
>
> *Any response welcome except remarks about the three quarter inch putty knife
> scraping being the hardest way to clean an entire car! ;-)
>
> Regards
> Carl
> '64 TR4 since '74




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