Jack Brooks wrote:
>We just finished the thread on diff preloads, but I still have one question
>about the 15-18 inch-lbs. applied to turn the pinion without the seal, etc.,
>etc. Is this torque measured without the axles attached? With the axles,
>but no wheels? or just jack it up, spin everything and shim until this value
>is reached?
I don't know if we DID finish this thread, Jack. I'm still not clear on
this issue. I think you ask a good question... if I understand you
correctly, you're saying, "Hey. If the little puny oil seal creates enough
drag on the pinion to throw off your preload figure, then what about the
drag of the ring gear & carrier, inner axles, half-shafts, hubs, and
perhaps even wheels and tires?"
>This was not addressed in our recent thread and is not clear in the Factory
>TR2-3 or the Haynes manuals. I believe there would be a significant
>difference and since I am about to reshim, (The preload was almost
>non-existent when I replaced the seal last year and I only had enough shims
>to get to 55 ft-lbs. of preload. I now have more shims and I am going to
>get the preload the rest of the way to 85 ft-lbs.
Correction... I think: You're looking for 15 to 18 INCH-POUNDS of preload.
Not 85 FOOT-POUNDS. 85 FOOT-POUNDS would refer to the tightness of the
pinion flange nut, not the bearing preload.
So from your experience would you say that it would be normal for the
pinion flange nut on a high-mileage diff to just spin off with finger
force, even if that same nut was torqued to the spec of 90 to 120
FOOT-POUNDS when the diff was originally assembled?
And, if that is correct, then should I be ordering some shims to restore
things to their proper relationships before I reinstall my diff?
And, if THAT answer is "yes," then how far can I go without disturbing the
pinion/ring gear mesh pattern, or is it possible to add shims and NOT
disturb the mesh of those gears?
I'm still really confused, folks... let's keep this topic going!
Pete Chadwell
1973 TR6
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