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Re: So I've broken my first couple of parts...

To: Dan Buettner/Nicole Cable <nickndan@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: So I've broken my first couple of parts...
From: Randall <randallyoung@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 04:58:21 -0800
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <v04210101b4417a1aa7b8@[63.11.140.144]>
Dan :

Even the replacement master cylinders from Moss and TRF don't look like
the originals, including the push rods and clevises (clevi ?).  If your
clevis is useable, I'd go with the pushrod from VB (although you are
right, it probably won't look correct).

Since you've already cut the capillary (and don't have to worry about
ruining the gauge), try heating the thermostat housing with a propane
torch (after removing the thermostat of course).  Then with the housing
quite hot, try gently wiggling the bulb with pliers. 

There are several people around who can remarry your capillary tube and
bulb, or possibly even supply a new bulb if you destroy the old one. 
Moss mentions MO-MA in New Mexico at 505-766-6661, and West Valley
Instruments in California at 818-758-9500.  I don't know anything about
them, except I've been hearing about MO-MA for 20 years and no one has
ever said anything bad about them (to me).  Check out the archives, or
the monster list, for others.  Be sure to get a quote first, as the
price may surprise you.

The gauge is a standard size (2" nominal), as is the fitting on the
thermostat housing so there are lots of options for replacement gauges. 
The later TR electric gauges will work, if you can find one used (they
frequently come up on eBay), but unless you get one from an early TR4,
you will also need the voltage stabilizer.  According to Moss, they
switched at CT11307, which would have been mid to late 62.  The TR4 (and
later) gauges also look different. 
 
Almost any auto parts store (including JC Whitney, etc.) will carry a 2"
mechanical gauge that will fit (look for a 5/8" fitting, and the clamp
to mount into your dash).  The look of course is completely different,
and you'll have to wire a separate light, but they at least make an
acceptable substitute while you get your original repaired.

Gower Oaks ( http://www.escalix.com/freepage/goweroaks/ ) will sell you
a new gauge that says 'Smiths', but alas they look different too.

Randall
59 TR3A daily driver - with a cheap Tgauge from the local 'Pep Boys' <g>

Dan Buettner/Nicole Cable wrote:
>
> So does anyone out there have an original Girling pushrod (and maybe
> a fork) they would part with, or know of a source for them?
> 
>Finally I got frustrated and simply cut the
> capillary. 
> So what do I do now?  If I can get the sending unit out of the
> housing, can what I have be mended in any way?

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