It's reasonably straightforward, if a bit awkward and unpleasant.
Start with the engine cold, drain the radiator and remove the fan belt.
(This would be a good time for a new belt.)
Remove the three nuts/bolts holding the old water pump on, and pull or pry
the pump off. ISTR you have to loosen all three before you can completely
remove two of them.
The factory setup had a bolt through the pump that was trapped in place by
the pulley, but many aftermarket pumps do not have a removeable pulley, so
you may need to change the bolt to a stud and nut.
Clean the face of the housing (the part still attached to the engine)
carefully, to remove all traces of the old gasket, gasket sealer, etc.
If the new pump does not come with a pulley, you will need to remove the
pulley from the old pump. This is best done with a 'bearing separator'
type puller, as the edges of the factory pulley are brittle and break
easily. HF has a bearing separator kit for $30 or so (less on sale).
Remove the nut from the shaft, and find a socket or piece of pipe, etc. of
the right diameter to slip over the threads and bear on the end of the
shaft inside the pulley. If your puller bears directly on the threaded
part, you run the risk of bending or breaking it.
Use a new nyloc nut, and go easy on the torque when putting the pulley on
the new pump. I don't recall the exact spec, but it's only 10 ftlb or so.
Smear both sides of the new gasket with your favorite sealer (Hylomar), and
bolt it all back together. Replace the lockwashers if they are tired. A
little anti-seize on all threads is a good idea, too.
Don't forget the water and fan belt <g>
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver
On Monday, May 15, 2000 4:49 PM, KGeromini@aol.com [SMTP:KGeromini@aol.com]
wrote:
>
> I am about to change my TR3b water pump. I've studied the service manual
> (which doesn't have much info) and looked at the diagrams in Moss and the
> TRF. Since, I am not mechanically great, I am asking the list for some
tips
> and what to expect?
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