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Sill Replacement

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Sill Replacement
From: Ct54531@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 12:56:24 EDT
Listers:

In what is hopefully the last 'structurally' related chore in the restoration 
of my live axle 65 4A, I am replacing the inner sill on the driver's side 
(left hand). What was there before was perhaps 30" of the original in the 
middle (under the 'A' post and extending back and forth). Both the front 
section to the firewall and the back section to the 'B' post were gone - 
completely rusted away. In its place, the PO had riveted pieces of a pretty 
light guage metal shaped to resemble the sill. That's not a criticism of the 
PO. He did creditable things to preserve this car at a time when he had 
little to work with (70's). Anyway, I cut out the old sill and removed the 
patches and am at the point of trying to fit the new sill. 
Let me stress that I took a couple of weeks to remove the old sill and the 
rest of the metal using air compressor cutting tools, mini die grinder,  and 
angle grinders as well as other things, I really got a clean separation even 
preserving the flange that overlaps the sill at the 'A' post. I can clearly 
see the outline of where the old sill was and where the new one should go and 
therein lies the problem. I can't say it doesn't fit but it's not that close 
either.
With the new sill in place with regard to the top flange, the bottom flange 
is a good 3/8 of an inch below the floor pan. It doesn't sound like much when 
I say 3/8" but it seems like it on the car.
Is it possible that over the years - or in the last two weeks with the sill 
coming out - that the left side of the car 'settled'? (Boy, I hope that 
doesn't sound too stupid). The door is off by the way and the posts are 
supported but can they have dropped a bit laterally without the sill to 
support them? 
If that theory isn't totally off the wall, would the fix be to actually 
'jack' up the posts until the bottom flange can sit on the top surface edge 
of the floor pan? It would be a matter of a fair bit of force/torque but - 
does the sill actually play a role in 'holding up' the 'side' of the car? 
Needless to say, I don't want to do anything in this regard that's going to 
knock the car out of whack. It may not sound like it but its a good, solid, 
and very original TR. I want to preserve it, not wreck it. 
I think I have the right part - Moss part # 855-230 (also labeled 850122?). 
Once this is done, it's on to putting things back together and painting,etc. 
Hopefully in time for the SE Regional. 
Help!

Jim 
CT54531L

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