On 7/9 Dave Massey wrote to Gary Nafziger;
>Your engine is getting tired though it will run for a quite a while longer.
>These cars (I'm assuming you have a TR6 but it applies to the Vangard
>motors, too) are well adapted to in situ repairs. Low oil pressure can be
>rectified by dropping the oil pan and replacing the crank bearings and oil
>pump. I did this and my oil pressure went from about what you had to 70
>PSI from 1500 RPM up and 40 PSI at idle. Don't forget the thrust washers.
>Oil can be consumed via two avenues (three if you count leaks but if you
>were leaking a quart every 400 miles you would have a pool under your car):
>rings and valve guides. You can pull the head and have a machine shop
>install new valve guides. Once you have the head and oil pan off you can
>pop out the pistons and put in new rings.
>After you do all this you have virtually a new motor. If you do this every
>50 - 70 thousand miles you cn run the engine 200,000 or more between total
>rebuilds.
It sounds like Dave is saying that you can replace the thrust washers and
bearing by dropping the oil pan, without pulling the engine. Is this
correct? How difficult, I'm a rookie? I have 60,000 miles on the car and
while I have no oil leaks and have very good oil pressure, I am burning oil
at a rate of a quart every couple of hundred miles. It sounds like Dave has
a list of what to do with the engine at this stage to keep it in good shape
and before I get started I would like to understand what I should be
considering. Thanks
John, '71 TR6
Berkeley Springs, WV
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