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Re: TR3 Control Head/Horn Button - Dumb Question

To: Stephen Peca <sppchicago@excite.com>, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: TR3 Control Head/Horn Button - Dumb Question
From: "Michael Ferguson" <fergie@ntplx.net>
Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 21:25:04 -0400
Not so dumb, Steve. Not so easy either, but not THAT bad. The control head
is attached to 4 (I think) wires that connect to the horn and turn signals.
These wires (about an 8' long bundle) come out of the back of the Control
Head through a 2-3" long tube that's attached to the CH (find a picture of a
repro CH in a TRF catalog and you'll see what I mean by this short tube).
The wires are fed through the stator tube (a tube about 6' long and about
3/8" in diameter which runs through the center of the steering column) and
when you've fed them enough, they come out of the other end of the steering
box. You're done when you're able to insert the short CH tube into the
stator tube.

The short tube has a nib on it that slides into a slot that's machined into
the stator tube. This slot is what prevents the CH from turning as the
stator tube is not supposed to turn. Your problem is most likely a split or
broken stator tube (where the slot is located). This is apparently quite a
common problem. If the slotted end of the stator tube is broken, there's
nothing to prevent the CH from turning.

In order to remove the CH, you have to....
1) remove the three grub screws on the back side of the center of the
steering wheel,
2) disconnect the wires from the horns and turn signals (all connections are
located right behind the left side horn-follow the wires that come out of
the front of the steering box to see which ones to disconnect), LABEL THE
WIRES BEFORE DISCONNECTING (Don't ask me how I know this),
3) remove the nut, on front of the steering box (be sure to have a pan to
catch the steering box oil) and then remove the "olive" (should just slide
off) from the end of the stator tube)
4) grab the CH and pull the 8' wire bundle out of the stator tube. (Don't
pull on the CH once you can get a grip on the wire bundle itself.)

BUT WAIT! Before you pull those wires all the way out (rather a pain to
reinstall), you can pull them out about 6", let the CH dangle there and then
look at the stator tube (you'll see the end of it in the center of the
steering wheel). You may have to tug on it a bit to pull it out enough to
see whether or not it's split. If it is, pull the wires and tube out
together and order a new tube.

I just re-read the above and fortunately this will not be nearly as
confusing when you see it as it seems from reading what I just wrote! Also,
I understand that stator tubes are readily available. Last I heard, you
could get stainless ones from Really Healey in NJ (and who knows where
else).

Anyway, hope this makes sense...and that it helps.

Good luck.


Michael Ferguson
1959 TR3A  TS53990L...O
There is a very fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness.'...Dave Barry

----------
>From: Stephen Peca <sppchicago@excite.com>
>To: triumphs@autox.team.net
>Subject: TR3 Control Head/Horn Button - Dumb Question
>Date: Sun, May 6, 2001, 7:17 PM
>

>
> The dumb question for the week:  how do I remove the control head on the
> steering column?  I've looked in the books I have and there is no mention on
> how to do this.
>
> The control head spins freely causing much irritation when I'm driving and
> trying to use the turn signals.  I also suspect that the horn doesn't work
> (it did before) because a wire became dsiconnected.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Steve Peca
> Franklin Twp, New Jersey
> 1958 TR3A - TS23867L

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