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Re: TR250 camshaft (sorry for dupes, trying put into plaintext mode)

To: "David Brady" <dmb993@earthlink.net>, "TR250" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: TR250 camshaft (sorry for dupes, trying put into plaintext mode)
From: "Nelson A. Riedel" <nriedel@nextek.net>
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 15:40:39 -0400
References: <3B0572B4.7010905@earthlink.net>
Subject: TR250 camshaft (sorry for dupes, trying put into plaintext mode)


>
> Hi Folks,
>
> My beloved TR250 ate its camshaft. :-( I noticed that
> she was running on 5 cylinders so I checked a few things
> and found that there is practically no lift on valve 8. I
> removed the head and pulled the lifters and found that
> along with no lobe on the cam for valve 8, the lifter is
> badly worn away, and all 11 other lifters show significant
> wear. I dropped the sump, removed the oil pump and
> found that it too is badly scored. I removed 2 conrod
> end cap bearings and found metal fragments burried into
> the bearing surfaces and no damage to the crank. I still
> have 4 other conrods to inspect plus the crank bearings.
> I'm going to replace the conrod bearings, the crank bearings,
> the oil pump, the camshaft, and the lifters. I'm going to
> attempt to do this with the engine in the car. I've been told
> that one can actually replace the crank main bearings w/o
> removing the engine. If I remove one main bearing
> end cap at a time, insert a cotter pin perpendicular into the
> oil hole, leaving the looped end of the cotter pin protruding
> from the crank journal sufficiently to engage the bearing
> shell, I may be able to rotate the crank forcing the shell
> from its seat. I can then insert the new bearing shell using
> the same technique. Any advice or wisdom is greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> David Brady

Hi David,

I've done the work you describe several times without removing the engine.

To remove the main bearings, I'd loosen all the caps a little and then
remove one of the caps, take the lower bearing out and bend one end over to
form a tab and use that bearing to push out the top bearing.   The tab
allows you to remove the pusher after it has slid into the top position
pushing the top bearing out.  Install new bearings on that journal, replace
the cap (leave a little loose) and move to the next.  The only problem with
letting the crank drop a little is that it distorts the seals so don't let
it drop very much.

I'd exam the crank bearing surfaces very carefully to make sure they are not
damaged.    The crank can also be removed without pulling the block, but you
have to pull the gearbox, radiator, etc, etc.

Good luck

Nelson Riedel
Granville, OH
76 TR6 (assembling after new paint)
68 TR250 (next project - new paint)
70 TR6 (all the parts in a pile ready to assemble)

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