I spent about a year (off and on) with my diff on the table - it is not too
hard to pull the carrier out of gear box with a couple pry bars ( I used a
claw hammer and a large screw driver). In fact most of the professionals I
talked to when looking for a 'spreader' told me that's how they did it. It is
a snug fit ( suppossed to be) with just .003" pre-load. Fixing the planet
gear slop inside the carrier with thicker thrust washers is pretty easy with
no special tools (I used a nail to pound out the cross shaft locking pin).
The challenging part is getting .005 backlash on the crown and pinion gear.
You have to pull the carrier bearings and adjust shims side to side to get
the .005 backlash (not hard if you have a decent bearing puller).
Unfortunatley due to the 'pattern' of my meshing teeth I need to pull the
race on the pinion gear to adjust it forward with shims and I don't have that
kind of race puller so thinking I will bring whole darn heavy thing to my
Brit mechanic and have him set my backlash for $50. Then I will close it up
and install new seals etc.
I guess my point is you may be able to adjust your backlash simply by moving
shims from one side to other on gear carrier. But if when using engineers
blue paint on your teeth you can't get good pattern of wear you will have to
make adjustments to pinion gear races and it gets more complicated.
The whole proceedure is quite well documented in factory manual. (except
apparently 90% of folks don't use a spreader)
If you find any bearings that need replacing the preloads (pinion gear and
crown gear carrier) most likely will need to be set from scratch.
'63 TR4 since '74 - CT22326L
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