Triumph People:
Latest on this mishap is as follows. Removed the fan extension and fan
pulley (the radiator was already out). Obtained a grade 8, 5/8th by 2.5
inch fine thread bolt, and two corresponding nuts. Inserting the bolt
into the front of the crankshaft, locking down with one nut and using the
other for leverage on the head, I couldn't turn the engine with an
11/16ths sixpoint socket head with a 1/2 inch drive, a quality breaker bar
and whatever manual force I could exert as a 190lb athletic type of guy.
I then used a can of "PB blaster" into the sparkplug holes waited a day
and still couldn't turn it. A trip to the plumber's supply store got me a
can of "Pipe Break" which was sworn to be the best thing on market for
this type of applicaion, applied same, waited a couple days and still no
motion on the bar. This lead me to apply copious amounts of "Marvel
Mystery Oil" into plug holes and wait over the holiday weekend. Still not
able to break the frozen pistons hold on my engine. SOO, today I removed
the head and found that the number four cylinder (rear) and liner appeared
considerably more rusted and frozen than the other three, whose walls were
clean, and pistons had black tarnish. In contrast the rear cylinder was
filled with oil and rust particles, whereas the others had drained the oil
past the rings and didn't contain extensive accumulations of rust and
debris. Same held true for the head, which was contaminated only on the
number four cylinder. Interestingly the guilty cylinder was in the most
downward position, and the exhaust manifold was broken such that the
corresponding cylinder may have had moisture from the atmosphere readily
entering it ... another problem I noticed is that the head appears to have
rusted through rather close to each combustion chamber on one side in a
small oblong hole approx 1 inch by 1/4 inch.
So my questions to the list are:
1.) What's up with the rust holes in the head?
2.) Can I replace just one cylinder and liner, and if so does anyone have
a used set of 86 mm that they would part with for an agreed upon sum?
3.) Am I missing anything important here?
-Kevin
On Mon, 27 Aug 2001, Randall wrote:
> Kevin :
>
> IMO it's time to tear the engine down. Even if you get it loose by
> soaking in penetrating oil (IMO PB Blaster is much better than Liquid
> Wrench), the corrosion has left pits in the cylinder walls that will
> cause rapid wear of the liners and rings.
>
> I really hate seeing nicely restored cars that blow blue smoke ...
>
> Randall
>
> Kevin O'Driscoll wrote:
> >
> > I think I did a stupid thing when I stored my car three years ago
> > at the beginning of the restoration. I had a strong running engine with
> > good compression in all four cylinders and good oil pressure too. When I
> > disassmbled most of the car I just drained the water from the engine and
> > squirted a little engine oil into the spark plug holes, leaving the engine
> > oil in the sump. I left the engine in the car all that time and have
> > recently gotten to putting things back together. The engine didn't want
> > to turn over manually by applying pressure to the flywheel, or by trying
> > to leverage the fan. I then squirted some liquid wrench into the spark
> > plug holes and into the intake and exhaust ports. Still didn't want to
> > turn over manyally, so I bolted up the starter and put 12 volts across it
> > but nothing happened. What to do next? At this point the body is still
> > sitting two feet above the frame, but the suspension and drivetrain are
> > all together. Any and all advice is gladly accepted.
> > -Kevin
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