Hi List!
I want to thank Dave M. & Jack D. for their efforts, time &
understanding in dealing with me & my question. This is a summary:
Question #2- Oil Plugs?
The front plug on the TR4/A engine is threaded in [I've been told]:
HOW Should I remove this, or Not at all?
Is the rear cam bearing Oil Plug threaded?
How does one remove this?
Removing the Oil Gallery Plug is straight foward, or is there a 'trick'
to it? It would be my luck that they were LH Thread or something! ;-)
TIA, with more questions coming. -Cosmo Kramer
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Summary:Referring to Moss [USA] catalog on TR2->4/A External engine page
You should remove the plug because: The plug may not completely
disolve
--[if dipping tank is used] only deteriorate so it won't seal
any more. I think these were poured in, but I'm not sure.
The end plug for the camshaft bore is not threaded. It is a
'core
plug' which means that it is inserted in the bore and then hit with a
hammer to make it expand. These plugs are usually available in the U.S.
in the right size, but if not, they are available from Moss.
The Oil Galley end plug is a 5/8 fine thread. Use a 5/8" fine
thread bolt, covered with a teflon thread sealant (NOT the wrap-around
teflon tape!). Screw it in tight, then cut it off with a cutoff wheel
and dress it down flush. OR If these are, indeed, 5/8 UNF (and not BSF
or some other standard), you can buy 5/8-18 socket set screws from;
McMaster-Carr. They have them in 5/8 length (page 2801, part#
91375A810 - available in less than full package quantities). Call:
(630)- 833- 0300.
The LH side of the engines oil galley are fine thread short
bolts with
copper [Cu] washers between them & the engine block. In theory, once you
disturb the seal for the engine, then you should replace the Cu
washers. There are different philosiphies in replacing the the org. Cu
washers:
1- If you want to, you can normalize them -- that is, make them soft
again. If they are dished, put them on a flat surface and give them a
gentle rap with a hammer. Then place them on an insulating surface, like
concrete or brick, and heat them up with a butane torch until they are
really hot [they would glow in the dark if it was dark]. Then let them
air cool. This works with anything made of copper.
2- Put a small drop of Lock Tight on the outside edge of the block
threads, & smear some gasket sealer on the inside of the Cu washer
before installing them.
3- Replace them if you can get them.
-Cosmo Kramer
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