Bruce :
That is a classic "bad connection" problem, and your "not enough amps"
explanation is close enough. Basically, there is a (relatively) high
resistance, somewhere between the leads and the battery. (The fact you
don't see voltage on either side when one side is connected, would seem
to rule out a bad ground.)
I don't know where the common failure points are on a TR7, but since
everything else seems to work, I would test at the backup light switch
on the transmission next. That should tell you if the switch itself is
bad, or the problem is between the switch and the lamps, or between the
switch and the fuse block. (According to my Haynes, the brake lamps and
turn signals get power from the same fuse, so presumably everything's OK
between the fuse block and the battery.)
Randall
Eganb@aol.com wrote:
>
> Everyone,
>
> I should be able to figure this one out. My backup lights have suddenly
> stopped working. With the car in reverse, and both backup bulb holders out
> of the taillight assembly, I use my voltmeter and place one lead on the wire
> going to one bulb holder, and the other lead on the metal shell of the light
> assembly.
>
> Sure enough, got 12 volts going through it, but the bulb won't light. If I
> test the other bulb holder, same thing. But if I reconnect one bulb holder
> to its taillight assembly, then I don't get any voltage going to either
> backup light.
>
> All of the rest of the lights work fine. Is it possible to have 12 volts
> running to the backup lights, but simply not enough amps, because of some
> reason? I assume the amps are what make the bulb light up?
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