Geo,
Pull the tops off the carbs, pull the air valve (with the diaphram still
attached and adjust your needle so that the "shoulder" of the needle is flat
even with the bottom of the air valve. Both needles being set at the same
reference point from the bottom of their air valve is the important part.
Now when they're back together (and with the diaprhram nib in the right
place) you get one full turn either to the right (rich) or left (lean) to
adjust the fuel/air mixture...at least that's the theory. In practice you
adjust them, and tweak them, and play with them until your plugs are a nice
chocolate brown color (not black or chalky white) on the electrodes. Read
them often. Just keep track of where you are from your reference point as
you change the mixture...or the penalty is taking off the carb covers and
starting over.
Bud Rolofson
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geo Hahn" <geohahn@theriver.com>
To: "TR" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 9:41 PM
Subject: Tuning ZS 175 Carbs
> I've set the TR4 carb mixture using the method described in Haynes of
> cranking the jet all the way up then bringing it back down 3 turns.
>
> Seems to run okay but is there a method for dialing in a more exact
> setting?
>
> The manual describes lifting the piston 1/32 inch with the result being
> no change in engine speed if the mix is correct... speeding up if to
> rich, stalling if too lean. Is that an adequate test? I'm willing to
> drive -- stop -- adjust -- rinse & repeat -- if that is necessary but
> would need to know what I am looking for, i.e. what are the driving
> symptoms of too rich or too lean?
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> Geo Hahn
> 64 TR4
> Tucson
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