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RE: TR3 steering box rebuild questions

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: TR3 steering box rebuild questions
From: Randall Young <ryoung@NAVCOMTECH.COM>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 17:44:25 -0800
> a) the worm looks a bit scary: the surface of the cylinder (between
> the race) is chipped. It looks like the peg got worn and started
> applying a lot of pressure just on the edge of the race and
> eventually this edge failed. Is that typical? I remember Randall
> saying that his 'looked chewed by the steel rats' or something. The
> race itself does not look too bad.

On mine, the worst of the damage was right at the edge, but it extended down
in to the center of the face where the peg runs.  I believe this was caused
by my previous attempts to remove some of the slop by tightening the
adjustment.  My peg was so badly worn that there were two tight spots, one
on either side of center, and I was trying to tighten the adjustment until
there was also a tight spot in the center.  A mistake I will not repeat !

> b) the rocker shaft is scuffed, but mostly in the upper part, where
> the bearing is formed by the box casting, not by the replaceable
> bronze bushing. There the wear (oval) is about 0.002. Is this
> someting to worry about or does the bronze bushing carry the whole
> load when reconditionned?

I'm pretty sure the shaft is not supposed to touch the casting, it rubs only
after the bushing is significantly worn.

However Bob Jasper (a local TR3A owner not on the list) made an interesting
comment to me the other day, he bored out that upper hole and added a
bushing to it.  If I ever have to redo my box, I plan to try that myself.

> The shaft is smooth (0.0002) at the
> location of the bronze bushing. Where would you go to have the rocker
> arm reground if possible at all?

Any decent machine shop should be able to do this.  Afterwards they will
also have to make you a custom bushing, as I don't believe they are
available in undersizes.

> c) is the peg on the rocker arm pressed in or expanded on the top
> like a rivet? I.e. Should I be able to drive it out without drilling
> out the part opposite to the peg itself?

Mine was pressed in, came out pretty easy with a big punch and BFH.  ISTR
somewhere I've read to peen the (relatively) soft arm around the hardened
pin, but I just used Loctite stud & bearing mount.

Randall
59 TR3A daily driver TS39781LO
63 Sports 6 rustoration project HB7826LCV

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