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Re: Questions, questions . . . VERY LONG!

To: twr@fc.hp.com
Subject: Re: Questions, questions . . . VERY LONG!
From: James V Laviana III <jimmad@juno.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 13:35:05 -0500
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Todd, I hope this is of some help!
                1. Sanding/sandblasting   Fine for removing rust and 
paint, just watch the pressure if your using a large industrial
compressor and nozzle, you could warp some large flat panels. The finish
left after blasting is an etched finish  and is fine to paint over. The
paint will adhere better to it. Most construction supply stores carry
blasting media at very reasonable prices, I use a product called black
beauty and it sells for $8/100lb. bag. It can be had in coarse or fine
grit.                                                           2. Body
Work  Buy yourself some inexpensive body tools, harbor freight carries a
seven piece tool kit that will be all that you need. Always weld in new
pieces. If you must use filler, try using body lead, other products can
be recomended by a quality body man. I have used PPG prducts for painting
my cars, particularly their Kondar primer and one step polyurethene.
Always spray primers and paints, never use a brush! One adage to buying a
compressor is to buy all the cfm you can afford, if you want to do your
own work, a compressor of at least 6hp and 17cfm@100 psi will be ample
with a minimum of a 60 gal. tank. I use a Sears Pro Paint gun, with some
tips from a few body men that I know, it works fine. Practice on
something else to get the proper spray pattern and tecnique before you
paint the car! Most people put 3 to5 coats of paint on their cars, wet
sanding in between. Books on painting can be had at local auto stores.
Dust can best be handled when body is painted in a booth, but DIYS'ers
can use a temporary cacoon made with plastic and a window fan.  I hope
this helps!

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