> Hi - I'm new to the list, and want to apologize in advance for any
> mistakes/errors I may make in sending this.
Hi David, and welcome to the list. We're pretty informal here, so any
'mistakes' will fit right in !
> 1. The engine has not been turned over in 12 years. I am going to add
> "mystery oil" to each of the cylinders, and let it sit for about a week,
> before I even attempt to turn it over. Any other suggestions?
I'll let others answer with their favorite procedures. I'd probably just
crank it first with the plugs out, long enough to build oil pressure, then
put the plugs in and fire it up.
> 2. When I took the radiator off, I noticed the crank hole did
> not line up
> with the front pulley. The radiator sat higher. There were no packings
> between the radiator and frame. I compared it with 2 other radiators I
> have, and they seem to be the same size. Any
> suggestions/comments as to why
> this does not line up? Is the packing necessary?
There is supposed to be shim(s) between the motor mounts and the engine to
line the hole up. It's also not at all unusual for old mounts to sag.
> 3. The bracket (cowling stay?), between the frame and cowling (apron)
> underneath the front, on mine is bent at almost right angles. Is this
> supposed to be straight?
I'm sorry, don't know what bracket you are talking about. My recollection
is that the only connection between the apron and the frame on the early
cars are the supports for the crank bracket.
> 4. When I took the cowling/apron off, there was no beading between the
> cowling/apron and the wings. Is there supposed to be on my model?
Yes, but it's different than the chromed bead used on later cars. According
to a long ago post I saved from TR Householder, Moss sells (or sold) a
fender welting for the MGA that is the correct shape for a TR2. I believe
that would be P/N 249-738, but I'm not certain. It will have to be painted
your body color. The rear fenders have the same bead/welting, I believe.
> 5. Since I've got the front of the car opened up, any suggestions as to
> what should be done or checked while it is accessible?
I would definitely get the engine running, and maybe a short drive (if
possible without attracting the attention of the local gendarmes). Also
check the steering to be sure you're happy with it, the apron has to come
off to remove the steering box on the early cars. Fill it and let it sit
overnight, any drips probably mean you want to rebuild the box. I'm sure
you will anyway, but JIC, have the radiator cleaned ("rodded") out. The
horns aren't too hard to get to with the apron on, but they're probably
easier with it off.
> 6. I've seen references to "The Big Three" when it comes to
> parts. I know
> about about TRF and Moss. Who is the third?
Victoria British, aka Long Motor Co.
http://www.victoriabritish.com/
Definitely a distant third in my opinion. Good prices, but not as wide a
range of parts, and absolutely non-existent technical support. Some people
have had quality issues with them. However they do occasionally stock
things that Moss and TRF don't. YMMV.
> 7. Does anyone have a picture of the cable release bonnet locks?
I don't, sorry.
Randall Young
59 TR3A TS39781LO daily driver (currently sidelined for OD transplant)
63 Sports 6 HB7826LCV rustoration project
71 Stag LE1473L daily driver (Real Soon Now)
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