Guy,
I am about complete with a frame-off on a 1974 TR6.
Suggestions:
Fabricate dollies for the sheet metal and the body tub, and use casters. That
way you can move things around as needed.
Use tags on switches, guages, etc. I used the ones taht have wire and are ~2"
by 4". Draw the connections, note if view is from front or back, and indicate
which wire went where. Use small tags, about size of a stamp, with string, in
every wire.
Use freezer bags that have write-on labels for hardware.
Use "PB Blaster" on stuck bolts, nuts, etc.
Take notes on the pages of a detailed catalog (TRF ?), right on the exploded
diagram. Note number of washers, shims, etc.
If removing the doors, don't forget to install a brace (I used wood, others use
angle iron, bolted or welded) between A and B post, so body doesn't fold when
lifted off the frame.
If you are removing the body, you can leave the engine in place, just have to
lift a little higher. Four of us lifted the TR6 tub up and over with no
problem, not much strain. You may have to remove intake manifold.
This is a start - feel free to e-mail me with any other questions.
Stan
> Hello All,
>
> I am in the early phases of restoring a TR4A. Anyone care to offer some
> awful experiences
> of your own that I may learn from? I am currently in the process of
> disassembling the car
> to begin the body and chassis work. I am taking a lot of pictures,
> referring to the Haynes
> Manual and a book by Roger Williams on restoring TR4's and TR4A's.
>
> I was hoping that some of the more seasoned members could offer some
> pointers for
> things to avoid and look out for, BEFORE I discover them for myself.
> For more info,
> I keep a web site for the project at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph.
>
> Cheers!
>
> Guy D. Huggins
>
> "Life isn't about having, it's about being.."
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