Guy -
A couple of thoughts on your restoration project: If you are pulling the
body from the frame, you should re-enforce the differential mounting points
(IRS car) as you've seen posted here recently. For the front suspension,
there's also available a re-enforcing scheme, using welded gussets, for the
lower wishbone arms. Doing some cross corner checks from various points on
the chassis would provide piece of mind but if the car has always tracked
fine & there's been no evidence of unusual tire wear, this might be
unnecessary. I have that info from the factory manual if you end up needing
it.
I had good luck getting my clutch & brake master cylinders re-sleeved by
Apple Hydraulics. Wheel cylinders - buy 'em new. If you'll be purging all
the old hydraulic fluid (which I hope you do!), consider converting to the
non-paint eating DOT 5 silicone fluid.
If you'll be sandblasting & re-painting any components, consider having
them powder coated. Wish I'd known about that before I'd started.
I've rebuilt my rear hubs & have a home made Churchill tool for
separating them if you (or anyone on this list) need to borrow it. Shipping
it to you won't be cheap tho' !
I've used stainless steel fasteners (except in the Grade 8 applications)
where I could & anti-seize goop to make future dis-assembly easier.
I could e-mail you my collection of TR related links I've accumulated
over the years if need be. This list is your best resource for advice &
encouragement. Gotta head to work, let me know if I can offer any help.
Mark Meany
TR4A CTC62486 O
Keene, NH (Digest)
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