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RE: wiring

To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: wiring
From: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Thu, 6 May 2004 10:26:09 -0700
> Now that I have taken care of my hydraulics, it may be time to look at my
> wiring.  Everything seems to work fine, but it looks like there
> are lots of
> replacement wires and odd looking splices.  Plus I want to put in an
> alternator, electric fan, badgebar lights and the brighter
> headlights.  My
> plan is to get a new wiring harness from Dan Masters.  Is his
> wiring harness
> complete with good instructions?

Joe, I have one of Dan's kits, although I've not tried to install it yet.
It comes with very good instructions and is very complete.  One area where I
disagree with Dan ... his kit does not include connectors for the headlight
wiring between the main body and the front apron.  I agree with Dan that
it's important to keep voltage drop to the headlights as low as possible,
but removing the front apron is a common enough operation on a TR3 that I
think it's important to have connectors here.  So, I plan to add high
quality, high current connectors.  I may even parallel two conductors
through the connectors, to keep the resistance down.

>  Is it hard to do?

It looks to be a good deal of work, but I wouldn't call it difficult.

>  And, can I
> re-wire my car
> without taking off body parts?

The grille & headlamp buckets will have to come off, and you may need to
remove the board in front and/or behind of the fuel tank.  The job can
probably be done without removing the instrument panel, but removing it
might be easier.  (Try to support the fitting on the oil gauge while you
unscrew the nut & be very careful with the capillary tube for the temp
gauge).  To do it with the panel in place, you'll likely have to remove the
heater (if you have one).

Randall





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