John,
A few questions:
Do you have a "working" overflow bottle on the cooling system?
Is the heater valve open?
What is a "Geo Hahn air dam"?
At what speeds were you driving?
Were you in traffic with stop lights, etc.?
What are you hoping to see vs. the 195 degree reading you are seeing?
Jim
Jim Bauder
'58 TR3
(New!) '68 TR250
Scottsdale, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From owner-triumphs at autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John A. Wise
Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2004 5:25 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: TR3A cooling again
I am back with more cooling questions!
As you may remember, I live in Phoenix AZ, current temp is 1080 F at
5pm. Last night it was 990F at 9pm.
I have:
1. removed the thermostat to simulate a better water pump
(also bought a 1600F version sitting on my workbench)
2. blocked the bypass hose
3. flushed the entire system three different ways,
4. put on a "Geo Hahn air dam" to push a little extra air
through the radiator.
And in 1000F ambient last night, I was still getting about 1950F
driving around without sustained high speed.
Yes, I know the argument about not using a thermostat making the
water flow through the radiator too quickly. However, a colleague
argued that is exactly what a high volume water pump would do. Your
thoughts?
I am thinking about punching out the thermostat part of the old 1800
thermostat & only installing the outer ring to slow the flow a
little. Your thoughts?
Any other suggestions before a new radiator or water pump?
I am thinking that if the above fails, I will go for putting in a
higher capacity radiator rather than the pump (based on the theory
above). Again your thoughts.
Thanks once again,
John
John A. Wise, Ph.D., CPE
5483 W Potter Dr
Glendale, AZ 85308
(+1)(623)376-9632
Wise@erau.edu
1960 TR3A TS80422L
http://home.earthlink.net/~johnwise/TR3A.html
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