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RE: Leaking heater valve TR6

To: "Big Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: Leaking heater valve TR6
From: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 16:38:47 -0700
> It leaks from the threads on the head. The pipe threads arn't rusted and
> are clean.
> I guess I'll try a mixture of both only this time I'll wrap the tape a
> few more revolutions
> around the pipe. If that doesn't work JB weld comes to mind!

Jim, I don't have much experience with TR6 heads, but on TR3 heads I
generally make it a practice to chase those threads with the appropriate
pipe tap.  Your local tool supply house should have the tap (think I paid
$10 for mine), and you can use an 8pt socket with a T-bar to turn it.

Don't cut very much, just get to the point where the tap is cutting all
along it's length and stop.  Pipe taps are tapered, so the tap will start
out very loose and get tight as you turn it down.

FWIW, I also don't use Teflon tape around cars.  If you look hard enough at
Home Despot, they sell a can of Teflon pipe "dope" with a brush in the lid.
It avoids any chance of a sliver of tape getting into where it shouldn't
(not that that would be a problem with the cooling system), and IMO works
better than the tape.  Also functions as anti-seize, and so preserves the
threads better than tape, too.  A can of dope is more expensive than a roll
of tape, but it lasts a long, long time.

Randall

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