> When I gapped the
> points, I also painted a white mark on the pulley near the timing
> point (even
> with the small hole) . ( dumb question, but the cylinder to the
> front IS the
> Number 1 cylinder, correct?)
Yes, that's right.
> My dilemna is: today, I put an inductive timing light on the car.
> The mark
> that I painted on is an easy 1 1/2" to 2": to the right (carb
> side) of the
> timing point. I did no further adjustments to the points or the
> distributor,
> figuring I should leave well enough alone for now, until I get
> some input from
> the pro's out there.
> The idle is a bit high, around 950, but I blame this on the state of the
> carbs.
Terry, I'm not sure I follow you here, but it sounds like your timing is too
fast. 'Normal' timing for a TRactor motor is 4 degrees BTDC, which is only
about 3/8" on the edge of the pulley. The timing hole is supposed to be at
TDC (all referenced to #1 on compression, of course).
Of course it's also possible that your timing mark is off, either by the
pulley having been assembled incorrectly, or the key between the pulley hub
and crankshaft being broken or missing.
Another possiblity is the advance mechanism inside the distributor, perhaps
a spring is broken or slipped off.
If the car is drivable, I'd try setting the timing by the "road test" method
outlined in the book, basically warm the engine thoroughly and then try to
get it to knock by lugging it in high gear. The book says you should just
be able to make it knock, I like to retard a couple of degrees from that
point just for safety.
If that doesn't work (or can't be done), my next step would probably be to
observe whether the centrifugal advance is working. With the timing light
connected, slowly rev the engine up and watch the timing mark. It should
advance smoothly over a range of about 15 degrees as you rev the engine to
about 4000 rpm, then retard smoothly over the same range as you let it back
down.
Randall
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