Hi Randall!
Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it. I also received a similar reply from
another lister who suggested the same thing, set the engine and gearbox, and
then worry about adjusting the rear end later. This makes good sense so I
think I'll do it! The rear end needs to come out for refurbishing so I can
get wedges made that will fit the spring pads while it's out - or even have
the Spring Pads modified at that time.
Sounds like a plan to me :-)
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2005 1:32 PM
Subject: RE: TR3 Drive Train Angle - Might be tricky..
>> So for you list Gurus - does the TR3 have the tranny output flange a few
>> degrees higher than the motor, and the differential drive flange
>> pointing to
>> the ground, or am I missing something?
>
> To the best of my knowledge, no, but I've never tried to measure it. I
> think both the engine/transmission and the differential were originally
> level with the frame. The crank dog has to be in-line with the output
> flange, and they're both several inches (maybe 5 or so) above the frame on
> an original TR3.
>
> If you need to bring the differential nose up to match your engine
> installation, you can either have the spring perches cut and re-welded, or
> put wedges between the perches and the springs. My old motorhome used
> wedges to set the king pin inclination, so maybe you could find wedges
> under
> some old truck with a solid front axle in the junk yard. Or spend some
> quality time with a grinder and some flat bar. Might even be worth
> checking
> with your local 4x4 supply (but most of those folks don't seem to worry
> about minor things like alignment and vibration).
>
> Randall
>
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