Well, I thought I had the ammeter wired the opposite of the original owner.
He must have reversed it. With the key on and the park lights on it
registered positive. I reversed the two spade connectors on the back of the
ammeter and it reads slightly negative now. When the blinkers are on it
bolts to the negative side. :o) The light is still on the dash. The
generator is an NOS one. Probably out of the same lot as the NOS water
gauge. I'll try tightening the belt a little. Could be the same effect as
the no gas in the gas tank so no reading on the gauge. I thought I had read,
that the generators charge very little at idle???? This one so far does not
move anywhere near positive or even move at all. According to the manual, if
I pull the two harness wires off the generator and connect them together,
hook a lead to a volt meter and to one of the spade connectors on the
generator and the other to ground I should get some kind of reading. Maybe
tomorrow for that one. 94 degrees and 1000% humidity, this old budda needs
to hang it up for today. I think I will just move to the hospital room now
and bring the water gauge and ether and repair it there. That will at least
save me an emergency ambulance ride. Till later.
Alex
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2006 04:01 PM
Subject: RE: [TR] Houston update
> > There is this red
> > light on the gauge cluster that stays lit. (This must have something to
do
> > with the electricals, to early for Christmas decorations)
>
> If the red light stays on with the engine running, that normally indicates
a
> problem with the generator.
>
> > Ammeter reads to the
> > positive side even after the park lights are pulled on but not much.
>
> Where does it read with the engine stopped, and the park lights on ?
>
> > The old (NOS) still does not react to
> > heat (hot air gun). No kinks or bends or obvious breaks? Must not have
> > anything in the tube.
>
> Very possibly. Inside the tube is supposed to be ether, which is very
volatile
> (not to mention flammable). The tiniest leak will let it escape,
rendering the
> gauge non-functional. While repairing it at home is not totally out of
the
> question ... I've read stories of being able to successfully replace the
bulb
> with a new one cut off another gauge, by packing it in dry ice to keep the
ether
> inside ... I wouldn't recommend trying it.
>
> As Paul mentioned, you can buy a capillary type temp gauge at your local
auto
> parts store for not much money. Looks a bit odd with the old gauges, IMO,
but
> fits perfectly. Mine has a 270 sweep, which I do like.
>
> Randall
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