Terry,
You will have to raise the car a good bit to take the tranny out the bottom.
It comes out through the interior just fine. I would recommend removing the
passenger seat and covering the soft parts to make things easier. Don't
forget to disconnect the clutch slave cylinder/line before removing the
tranny. You will also have to remove the starter, but that is a given to
unbolt the bell housing. Also be sure to put something under the engine for
rear support. If you raise the engine just enough to lift the tranny off
the rear mount, the tranny should slide out fairly easy although it is a
small/awkward space to work in.
I would look at the clutch cover plate for the slipping problems. Very
unlikely it is a hydraulic issue since it does release fine. Air bubbles
will not cause any problem with the clutch slipping, only with it not
releasing. The only other cause could be the T/O bearing or fork hanging up
not letting the springs totally release, but more likely the springs are not
working in the cover plate. A normal problem with clutches sitting for a
long while. As a matter of course, unless all are brand new, I would change
the whole clutch assy (cover/plate/T/O bearing) if you're already going to
the trouble of taking the tranny out. Also look at the flywheel for grease
or other foreign substances. If it is dirty or wet you will get the same
symptoms. I would expect some smells though.
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Terry Smith
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 8:15 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3A Tranny Removal
My humblest apologies, everyone. I did a search of archives under
"transmission," but I couldn't find the threads I remember seeing about TR3A
transmission removal.
It is true, right, that I can:
1) remove the transmission tunnel.
2) disconnect the driveline
3) disconnect the speedometer cable
4) unbolt the bell housing
5) unbolt the tranny crossmember
6) pull back and drop down the tranny from below,without removing the
engine
and all that that entails?
I did drive this 3.3 year restoration project up my 1000 foot driveway.
Clutch slipped going up hill, so as to barely make it. New master cylinder,
new pipes. Rebled several times and no bubbles, but shouldn't matter
because
the depressing the pedal makes the clutch release fine, just doesn't clamp
to
the flywheel the way it should when you let the pedal up. All springs for
the
pedal and slave cylinder are in place. Oddly, I didn't smell a burning
clutch
like I would have expected, but then didn't run it longer than a couple of
minutes upslope.
So, I suspect something is binding in there. I did find that I have two
leftover engine mount spacers that I need to put back, which will elevate
the
engine a bit, but again, the engine and tranny are bolted together in
relation
to each other, so am not sure that eighth inch or so is sufficient
misalignment to cause drag.
(And don't let's talk about the Dragon Lady who refused to come out of her
lair in the DMV office today as I tried to get this thing registered. Not to
worry, St. George Smith shall Triumph!)
Thanks, everyone.
Terry Smith ('59 TR3A TS 58667)
New Hampshire
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