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Re: [TR] Opening Up Connecting Rod Oil Passages

To: Bill Brewer <billbrewer59@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Opening Up Connecting Rod Oil Passages
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 4 Dec 2016 06:46:23 -0700
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <000301d24dd8$d9e824b0$8db86e10$@yahoo.com>
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Or perhaps (as you mention) a pipe cleaner.  They are commonly sold in 12"
lengths as a craft item.  This is the Amazon listing but places like
Michaels probably have a selection.

http://tinyurl.com/j9crgos

Geo

On Sat, Dec 3, 2016 at 7:48 PM, Bill Brewer <billbrewer59@yahoo.com> wrote:

>      So I am rebuilding a Standard Vanguard engine for a 1953 Morgan Plus
> 4. The connecting rods have been laying on a shed floor for decades. They
> cleaned up nicely, but the oiling hole through the connecting rod to the
> small end bushings were all rusted solid. I made a tool out of a piece of
> 1/8 brass welding rod. I pounded the end flat, like a screwdriver, and
> pounded it in while turning with a small Vise-grips. It got the hole open=
ed
> and rust poured out. The hole is about 0.180=E2=80=9D diameter. I=E2=80=
=99ve been trying to
> find a long 3/16ths tube brush (like a pipe cleaner) to clean them out
> better, but no one makes one long enough. The brush needs to be about 5=
=E2=80=9D
> long and the longest that McMaster Carr has is 3=E2=80=9D. I could pull t=
he small
> end bushings out and go at it from both ends, but the bushings in there f=
it
> the wrist pins perfectly and I would rather not mess them up if I can hel=
p
> it.
>
>      I have been considering buying a 12=E2=80=9D long 3/16ths (.188=E2=
=80=9D) drill bit
> and running that through. It might open up the hole a little bit, which
> might not be a bad thing.
>
>
>
> http://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-High-
> Speed-Split-Point-Steel-Drill-Bit/74680.uts
>
>
>
>      Has anybody else been here? How did you get by this?
>
>      TIA,
>
>
>
>      Bill Brewer
>
>      Tehachapi, CA
>
>
>
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Or perhaps (as you mention) a pipe cleaner.=C2=A0 The=
y are commonly sold in 12&quot; lengths as a craft item.=C2=A0 This is the =
Amazon listing but places like Michaels probably have a selection.</div><di=
v><br></div><div><a href=3D"http://tinyurl.com/j9crgos";>http://tinyurl.com/=
j9crgos</a></div><div><br></div><div>Geo<br></div></div><div class=3D"gmail=
_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sat, Dec 3, 2016 at 7:48 PM, Bill=
 Brewer <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:billbrewer59@yahoo.com"; tar=
get=3D"_blank">billbrewer59@yahoo.com</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote =
class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid=
;padding-left:1ex"><div lang=3D"EN-US" vlink=3D"purple" link=3D"blue"><div =
class=3D"m_-430726669600274146WordSection1"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font fa=
ce=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:12pt">=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=
=C2=A0 So I am rebuilding a Standard Vanguard engine for a 1953 Morgan Plus=
 4. The connecting rods have been laying on a shed floor for decades. They =
cleaned up nicely, but the oiling hole through the connecting rod to the sm=
all end bushings were all rusted solid. I made a tool out of a piece of 1/8=
 brass welding rod. I pounded the end flat, like a screwdriver, and pounded=
 it in while turning with a small Vise-grips. It got the hole opened and ru=
st poured out. The hole is about 0.180=E2=80=9D diameter. I=E2=80=99ve been=
 trying to find a long 3/16ths tube brush (like a pipe cleaner) to clean th=
em out better, but no one makes one long enough. The brush needs to be abou=
t 5=E2=80=9D long and the longest that McMaster Carr has is 3=E2=80=9D. I c=
ould pull the small end bushings out and go at it from both ends, but the b=
ushings in there fit the wrist pins perfectly and I would rather not mess t=
hem up if I can help it.<u></u><u></u></span></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNorm=
al"><font face=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:12pt">=C2=A0=
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 I have been considering buying a 12=E2=80=9D long 3/16th=
s (.188=E2=80=9D) drill bit and running that through. It might open up the =
hole a little bit, which might not be a bad thing.<u></u><u></u></span></fo=
nt></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font face=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=
=3D"font-size:12pt"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNo=
rmal"><font face=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:12pt"><a h=
ref=3D"http://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-High-Speed-Split-Point=
-Steel-Drill-Bit/74680.uts" target=3D"_blank">http://www.truevalue.com/<wbr=
>product/3-16-x-12-In-High-<wbr>Speed-Split-Point-Steel-Drill-<wbr>Bit/7468=
0.uts</a><u></u><u></u></span></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font face=
=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:12pt"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u>=
</span></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font face=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3">=
<span style=3D"font-size:12pt">=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 Has anybody else be=
en here? How did you get by this?<u></u><u></u></span></font></p><p class=
=3D"MsoNormal"><font face=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:1=
2pt">=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 TIA,<u></u><u></u></span></font></p><p class=
=3D"MsoNormal"><font face=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:1=
2pt"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font fac=
e=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:12pt">=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=
=C2=A0 Bill Brewer<u></u><u></u></span></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><f=
ont face=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:12pt">=C2=A0=C2=A0=
=C2=A0=C2=A0 Tehachapi, CA<u></u><u></u></span></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNo=
rmal"><font face=3D"Calibri" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"font-size:12pt"><u><=
/u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></font></p></div></div><br><br>
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<br></blockquote></div><br></div>

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