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Re: [TR] Opening Up Connecting Rod Oil Passages

To: Bill Brewer <billbrewer59@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Opening Up Connecting Rod Oil Passages
From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 4 Dec 2016 09:04:49 -0600
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <000301d24dd8$d9e824b0$8db86e10$@yahoo.com>
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I'd probably soak them in Evapo-Rust for a few days or a week before doing
anything, to see how bad (or good) they are under the corrosion.

On Sat, Dec 3, 2016 at 8:48 PM, Bill Brewer <billbrewer59@yahoo.com> wrote:

>      So I am rebuilding a Standard Vanguard engine for a 1953 Morgan Plus
> 4. The connecting rods have been laying on a shed floor for decades. They
> cleaned up nicely, but the oiling hole through the connecting rod to the
> small end bushings were all rusted solid. I made a tool out of a piece of
> 1/8 brass welding rod. I pounded the end flat, like a screwdriver, and
> pounded it in while turning with a small Vise-grips. It got the hole open=
ed
> and rust poured out. The hole is about 0.180=E2=80=9D diameter. I=E2=80=
=99ve been trying to
> find a long 3/16ths tube brush (like a pipe cleaner) to clean them out
> better, but no one makes one long enough. The brush needs to be about 5=
=E2=80=9D
> long and the longest that McMaster Carr has is 3=E2=80=9D. I could pull t=
he small
> end bushings out and go at it from both ends, but the bushings in there f=
it
> the wrist pins perfectly and I would rather not mess them up if I can hel=
p
> it.
>
>      I have been considering buying a 12=E2=80=9D long 3/16ths (.188=E2=
=80=9D) drill bit
> and running that through. It might open up the hole a little bit, which
> might not be a bad thing.
>
>
>
> http://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-High-
> Speed-Split-Point-Steel-Drill-Bit/74680.uts
>
>
>
>      Has anybody else been here? How did you get by this?
>
>      TIA,
>
>
>
>      Bill Brewer
>
>      Tehachapi, CA
>
>
>
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> options/triumphs/don.hiscock@gmail.com
>
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr">I&#39;d probably soak them in Evapo-Rust for a few days or=
 a week before doing anything, to see how bad (or good) they are under the =
corrosion.</div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">O=
n Sat, Dec 3, 2016 at 8:48 PM, Bill Brewer <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D=
"mailto:billbrewer59@yahoo.com"; target=3D"_blank">billbrewer59@yahoo.com</a=
>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 =
0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div lang=3D"EN-US" l=
ink=3D"blue" vlink=3D"purple"><div class=3D"m_2650904662027231342WordSectio=
n1"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"><span style=3D=
"font-size:12.0pt">=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 So I am rebuilding a Standard V=
anguard engine for a 1953 Morgan Plus 4. The connecting rods have been layi=
ng on a shed floor for decades. They cleaned up nicely, but the oiling hole=
 through the connecting rod to the small end bushings were all rusted solid=
. I made a tool out of a piece of 1/8 brass welding rod. I pounded the end =
flat, like a screwdriver, and pounded it in while turning with a small Vise=
-grips. It got the hole opened and rust poured out. The hole is about 0.180=
=E2=80=9D diameter. I=E2=80=99ve been trying to find a long 3/16ths tube br=
ush (like a pipe cleaner) to clean them out better, but no one makes one lo=
ng enough. The brush needs to be about 5=E2=80=9D long and the longest that=
 McMaster Carr has is 3=E2=80=9D. I could pull the small end bushings out a=
nd go at it from both ends, but the bushings in there fit the wrist pins pe=
rfectly and I would rather not mess them up if I can help it.<u></u><u></u>=
</span></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri">=
<span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 I have been consi=
dering buying a 12=E2=80=9D long 3/16ths (.188=E2=80=9D) drill bit and runn=
ing that through. It might open up the hole a little bit, which might not b=
e a bad thing.<u></u><u></u></span></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font =
size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt"><u></u>=C2=A0<=
u></u></span></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Cal=
ibri"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt"><a>http://www.truevalue.com/<wbr>pro=
duct/3-16-x-12-In-High-<wbr>Speed-Split-Point-Steel-Drill-<wbr>Bit/74680.ut=
s</a><u></u><u></u></span></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3=
" face=3D"Calibri"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></s=
pan></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"><sp=
an style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 Has anybody else bee=
n here? How did you get by this?<u></u><u></u></span></font></p><p class=3D=
"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0=
pt">=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 TIA,<u></u><u></u></span></font></p><p class=
=3D"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"><span style=3D"font-size:1=
2.0pt"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><font s=
ize=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=
=A0=C2=A0 Bill Brewer<u></u><u></u></span></font></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"=
><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt">=C2=A0=
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 Tehachapi, CA<u></u><u></u></span></font></p><p class=3D=
"MsoNormal"><font size=3D"3" face=3D"Calibri"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0=
pt"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></font></p></div></div><br><br>
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<br></blockquote></div><br></div>

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